Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Ross, folks that do stupid things like that should have their tool boxes confiscated!

Hank, thinking about your oil filter. I believe its feed is from one of the front main bearing taps on the RH side of the engine and the drain goes back into the crankcase through a fitting under the oil fill pipe. Given the way the filter gets its supply, bleeding oil from one of the main bearings, I would be considering disconnecting the filter assembly and using it for garage art. Soon, you may want to drop the pan and clean it and the pump screen. The filter is probably not a necessary part, especially with improved oils frequent changes. I serviced my oil pan and screen after 9-years and there was a small bit of sludge in the bottom of the pan, but nothing significant.

(o{}o)

Next day... There should be a restriction in the feed line to the filter. It may be in one of the fittings on the engine or on the filter housing, or in the filter. If there is a restriction, then you should be okay.

thanks for the thoughts on the filter. I have no idea about the restriction, but you can take a look this Saturday. I am busy busy cleaning the car up and trying to make her show ready. fixing things, polishing, etc.


as to the wiring....the fuel pump on this car was also wired to 12v constant. fuel pump is dead but was still getting power. I disconnected it. I will find a replacement and run it on a switch and relays for the future.

hand transfer pump....I wised up and got one at Autozone when I got the last two jugs of oil I needed. amazing little tool!

I'm still getting chatter in second gear even with the oil change. and I can't put it in gear unless it is just about stopped or it grinds even with the clutch in. syncros must be bad. it makes it hard to drive it in a way.

front brakes pull to the right. gotta look at the front left and see what is going on.

here are some pictures of this weekends work. I took to chrome polishing. it needed it bad. the hupcaps I believe are remakes, too nice on the inside not to be. kanter probably.

I also repainted the emblems, not perfect, but its what I had to work with. the 120 badge on the trunk wasn't there when my Grandfather owned the car. someone put that on. side mount mirrors were not either. it had the clip on door style.

I put a cheap chrome exhaust tip on it that points down so it isn't blasting the paint and bumper with exhaust crude. its not correct, but it helps and it was 8 bucks.

also wanted show my wiring fix....crimped and shrink wrapped the way it should have, at the very least, been to begin with. later will be the new harness.

and good news. the blow by is pretty much gone thanks to the lucas oil and the leak has slowed significantly. no more smoke on startup

Attach file:

---

  (64.73 KB)


  (61.61 KB)


  (103.34 KB)


  (51.10 KB)


  (61.05 KB)


  (58.14 KB)


  (127.85 KB)


  (45.08 KB)

Nice to hear and see the progress.

You don't need a relay for an electric fuel pump, they draw a very small almost trivial amount of current and any quality on/off switch will handle it for the next hundred years (OK, I exaggerate a little).

With your front brakes, pull both drums, very often the problem with a pulling brake is leaking brake fluid which has gotten on the linings. Don't assume the problem is with the opposite side.

good to know, thanks! I will have to rent a drum puller, but I will inspect both sides. I suspect it was an incomplete brake bleed on the front left, but will go over everything as you suggest.

here is a pic before waxing and polishing. this was the initial bath. hood is up so I can blow all the water out of the spark plug crevasses. the hood doesn't hold out water well lol! I hadn't polished the chrome yet either.

Attach file:

---

  (120.00 KB)

I will have to rent a drum puller,

No drum puller required for the front brakes; remove the dust cap and cotter pin, unscrew the bearing retainer and just lift the drum off. Drum puller only required for the rear.

even better! any idea what the torque spec is for the lugs?

I think before bath time I'm going to get a tarp for the motor in the future.

any idea what the torque spec is for the lugs?

Other than cylinder heads, main and rod bearing caps and a few other items torque specifications for the most part came along later. For wheel lugs TIGHT was the specification of the early years but you could use the torque specs for postwar Packards using the same size lug bolt - about 85-95 lb-ft. for a 9/16-18 lug bolt.

I'm still getting chatter in second gear even with the oil change. and I can't put it in gear unless it is just about stopped or it grinds even with the clutch in. syncros must be bad. it makes it hard to drive it in a way.

---------------------------------

Syncro only on 2nd and 3rd. Grinding in 1st or reverse may mean clutch is not releasing completely. How much free play do you have at the pedal? Adjust for between 1- and 2-inches. See how that works. Also check for worn linkage.

(o{}o)

Thanks John. It feels like it works okay. Pedal engages about half way down. It doesn't like going down from third to second while moving either, but it's not as bad as first. First I have to come to a complete stop or it's not going into gear. I have to go easy. So it probably is the clutch and the main reason for the clattering. Im probably gonna need you and Flackmaster to really go over this car and give notes on what I need to do when we meet up in Kerrville! I'll take all of the advise I can get to make her top notch again!

I'll try to look at the clutch, but so far this week all I'll have time for is cleaning and checking those front brakes to see why it's pulling to the right. I'm very excited for the show. It will be fun and emotional for me.