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Back at it today. Stripped the entire rear to facilitate the body work and priming. Car up on jack stands while this process happens.

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Perfect, That is what i wanted to know. Mine has the T block with the filter bypass plugged. The Sender comes out the front of the T block then the other goes up to the lifer gallery. I am in good shape. I will let you know what i get going and send pictures. Thanks again

you have a wonderful car emerging out of the pile of rust you had! My wife's uncle has one of those sunken into the back yard, and I have often thought of how difficult it would be to restore it. he will not sell it and it will be a while before I would be able to afford the tools to accomplish the task. so I think that it will just turn into a headache to do anything to. great job and I hope the kids will enjoy taking it to the school functions when the time comes.

I have been sanding and doing metal prep (phosphoric acid) on the body shell to prep it for priming. Here are two shots, one of the body shell with the acid on the shell, and one after. Still need a little more prep and then it will be ready to shoot primer.

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Progress this evening....car now in full epoxy DTM primer.

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With the body in primer, it is time to get back to some mechanical work. The most important of which is the figuring out what is going on with the transmission not locking up into direct drive.

So I wedged my self under the car and hooked up the Ultramatic pressure gauge set to the Convertor In and Direct Drive Pressure ports per Ross's instructions, and ran the test with the car up on jack stands with the rear wheels allowed to spin freely..

After doing the tests as outlined in test forms and confirming the results with Ross, it looks like the direct drive clutch working pressure is too low and that is why the clutch will not engage under load. This is from worn bushings in the transmission. Only fix is a rebuild. Curious enough there was pressure to engage the Direct Drive when the car was off the ground under no load. So that means the valve is working just fine, just not enough engagement pressure to hold the clutch at load.

So I am going to drive as it for now (without direct) until the time it finally gives up the ghost, or I can afford to have it gone through. I had expected this, but had hoped it could have been a simple matter of a clogged valve. But the pressure tests confirmed that is not the case.

Pics

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Here is the video showing the direct drive engagement happening on the pressure gauges. The "Converter In" pressure shows on the right most gauge and drops when the direct drive starts to engage, and then the gauge on the left shows the direct drive port pressure as it locks up.

The DD pressure peaks at 40lbs, when it should be closer to 60lbs. According to Ross this is caused the pressure leaking out at the bushings.

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Decided to change the tranny fluid and see if anymore crap had accumulated in the filter since the time I originally cleaned all the much out.

The inside of the filter was clean (unlike last time), and there was a a couple of lumps of something on the top of screen.

The big problem was in the pan, lots of crap in the pan. Not sure if this was just stuff that was stuck up inside the tranny and was flushed out after changing the fluid originally, or if this is clutch lining. Whatever it was, it was mucky and I had to scrape it out of the bottom of the pan. This was not there last time. The valve body and underside was all nice and clean though.

Hopefully its not the high range clutches giving out.

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Yikes. Looks like the remains of the roast my wife just cooked in the crock pot.