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Believe it or not, the brass nuts are what the factory used, because they have a coefficient of thermal expansion more similar to that of cast iron. Also, make sure you don't get them too tight! I overtightened the nuts on my 115, and I believe that contributed to the manifold re-cracking along a previously repaired crack.

Monday 3rd August 2015

Spent most of the afternoon just cleaning and prepping for putting the timing case cover back on. Someone(moi?) was somewhat liberal with the black paint on the timing cover necessitating overpaint removal from various gasket services, seems I remember Wade complaining about the same thing from time to time. Soaking the crankshaft seal in oil overnight then the seal, it's retainer and the timing case cover will go back on. Cleaned the front motor mount up as well and it will go back on once the timing cover is in place. Jack currently supporting engine, together with wooden block, can then be removed. Also cleaned up the intake/exhaust manifold gasket surfaces and the exhaust pipe clamp surfaces, relatively easy to do. Next was the intake/exhaust manifold on the block, a little more involved because of various studs getting in the way not to forget the rearmost exhaust post surface up near the firewall being more difficult to access.

Had a phone call early in the day from Warren of Warners Bay Radiator Service to say the re-cored radiator is ready. Wade is going to pick it up and drop it off at the workshop next week when he comes to Sydney for the day. Also spoke with Wade for advice, twice. Firstly about what sealant to use on the intake/exhaust manifold and then about soaking the crankshaft seal in oil prior to its installation.

In my cleaning of the intake/exhaust manifolds noticed a casting number on the exhaust manifold of #359893. Later, in checking the parts book, found the actual part number to be #356894. A confirmation that, in many instances, the part and casting numbers differ by a digit or two.

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Tuesday 4th August 2015

A little progress, worked on getting the timing case on. Thought it would be straightforward but there always seem to be bumps along the way, well for me there are! Extracted the soaking crankshaft seal from it's oil bath and inserted it into it's carrier and then onto the crankshaft snout. Painted up all the gasket surfaces with Loctite No3 non hardening sealant. Then carefully, but not carefully enough as I dislodged the crankshaft seal from it's carrier when I tried to place the timing cover in place! Tried again after resettling the crankshaft seal into it's carrier. Good that time but in trying to align the timing case cover with the block dislodged the two gaskets where they meet. Off with the timing case, realign the gaskets, again dislodged the crankshaft seal from it's carrier! After a number of attempts finally was together and aligned. Except inserting the bolts was another little difficulty, some would screw in, other were reluctant to do so. Got enough in to hold the timing case in place and turned to the flat bar that holds the bottom of the timing case through the front of the sump(oil pan) by means of four bolts. To do that thought I'd have to get under the Coupe again, that was how I got them out. But after jacking the engine up slightly and putting the front motor mount temporarily back on suddenly had a eureka moment when I saw that raising the engine enabled those bolts to be accessed from in front without the need to go undercar! Certainly helped to do it that way as there was a lot of fiddling to get everything to align and the bolts started. With everything more or less in place then trial fitted the harmonic balancer with a light coating of oil on the crankshaft snout and the balancer to ease its passage. Was a little contrary in wanting to go on so decided not to push the limits, didn't want to hurt the replacement seal that was the reason for all this. Took the balancer off then rotated the crankshaft about 360 degrees because it looked like the seal wasn't centered in the timing case. That did the trick, slowly turning the crank re-aligned the seal and then the balancer slid in as expected. Took the balancer off and proceeded to tighten all the semi-tightened or half loose bolts and one bolt & nut until all were snug. That's the long story, short story is the timing case is back on!

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Saturday 8th August 2015

Today, after a concrete driveway was poured and the concrete finished, put the front motor mount back on the Coupe. But before putting on the motor mount cleaned the channel at the back of the crossmember of it's accumulated grime and associated matter. Part of the associated matter included a manifold washer, wondered where that went? Trickier than I thought, requiring some finessing between the jacking height of the engine combined with some leverage to align the bolts holding the mount to the front crossmember. Then some more cleaning of the front and sides of the engine followed by cleaning of the splashed around oil on the front clip. To do that, lifted the clip back up with the chain block permitting a pleasant working height on a messy job for a change.

That was it for the day, or so I thought. Later there was a knock on the door and who should be there but Graham, the concreter who did the driveway. Expected Graham on Monday, with the concrete starting to cure and permitting him to finish off the work on the driveway. Turns out Graham was passing in his '64 Ford Falcon XM Coupe after filling up at a service(gas) station. Slowed down to inspect his handiwork and in putting his foot on the clutch the pedal went to the floor when the clutch slave cylinder gave up the ghost. Graham had already called for a tow truck, so what was the reason Graham knocked on the door? He'd pulled up behind my daily driver which was parked on the street because of the driveway work and parked in front of me was a neighbours Ute. Graham needed my car, and the Ute, to be moved so the tow truck could pull the Falcon on front first. Then, a few minutes later, the tow truck couldn't find the Falcon when it reached my street turning right instead of left. Fortunately the tow truck driver pulled up, so was able to chauffeur Graham to the tow truck in my daily driver. After being loaded on the tow truck and on their way home, passed them a little later on my way out. Notes on Graham's XM Coupe - small block Ford 302 V8 with 289 heads and a Toyota Supra 5 speed gearbox(transmission). Bought by Graham about 18 years ago, the V8 swap had already been done because ALL Aussie built Falcons up to '67 came only with 6 cylinder power.

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Thursday 13th August 2015

Yesterday - Picked up the re-cored radiator from the workshop which Wade had delivered there. Speaking of the workshop, I was saddened to learn that Misty, John's dog had succumbed to cancer. No more bones for her although she's probably very happy chasing motorcycles in doggy heaven. Wade also delivered the remains of my 20 litre drum of engine oil, probably about 3 to 4 litres left, which was in his garage. Unfortunately our paths didn't cross so I'll have to thank him for the delivery service another day.

Today - Put the radiator back into it's cradle. Safest place for it be, out of the way and ready for when the front clip goes back on. Not much more done than that although there was further cleaning of the manifold surface on the engine block. Although I said this "brass nuts on the manifold studs. I'm going to go with steel nuts when it goes back together", Ken's advice that "Believe it or not, the brass nuts are what the factory used, because they have a coefficient of thermal expansion more similar to that of cast iron" has led me to a change of mind. So tidied up the brass nuts for the job ahead. Want to have the manifold back on. as well as a number of other things, before the front clip goes on.

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Monday 17th August 2015

After yesterdays Shannons Sydney Classic during which I fielded many queries about why the Coupe wasn't in attendance did something about that today. More cleaning of gasket surfaces on the block and intake/exhaust manifold and ensuring the brass nuts would screw onto the studs without impediment. Then using Permatex Hitemp RTV laid down a track on one side of the three intake/exhaust manifold gaskets and pressed them gently against the block then laid another track of RTV on the intake/exhaust manifold side of the gaskets. Maneuvered the intake/exhaust manifold unit into place, relatively easy because the front clip is off. I wouldn't want to attempt doing that if the clip was still on! Put on the thick washers followed by the brass nuts and tightened them gently so as not to squeeze the RTV out from the gasket, block and intake/exhaust manifolds surfaces. Will tighten the nuts down tomorrow. Put the carb back on, reconnected the throttle linkage, reconnected the fuel line, reconnected the tube to the automatic choke and finally reconnected the vacuum advance line to the distributor. The tube to the automatic choke doesn't connect to the tube through the exhaust manifold, it was broken when I got the Coupe. Instead Tim of Carburettor Service Company, when he rebuilt and refitted the carb, rigged up a brass tube which winds around and lays against the middle of the exhaust manifold, works well. The only problem with these reinstalls was the vacuum advance tube. Ended up, after many attempts and not wanting to cross thread anything, unscrewing the carb fitting and starting the vacuum advance tube into that and then reinstalling the carb fitting into the base of the carb.

Link to yesterdays photos, mostly uncaptioned.

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Tuesday 18th August 2015

Only a little done today. Tightened the intake/exhaust manifold nuts, remounted the generator and removed the water pump to check the water distribution tube. Generator was straightforward but will be tightened up once the fan and fan belt are mounted. In order to remove the water pump needed to drain the remaining coolant in the block. Undid the four bolts holding the water pump to the block and as I did so coolant started to drain out, running mainly down the front of the engine thence into a large container under the car. I'd needed to wait until the timing case was back on before undertaking this exercise. And didn't spill a drop! A near miracle for me. Once the coolant finished flowing, jacked up the rear of the Coupe so it was higher than the front allowing the coolant sitting in the block to flow out. I don't think I'm going to undo the little plug on the side of the block. The coolant that drained didn't seem to have any contaminants in it. Extracting the water distribution tube was a little harder than I thought it would be. But only because the end of the tube caught on the lip on the inside of the water jacket. Using a pair of pliers, to grip the tube, and a thin knife to slightly compress the top of the tube it then slid out easily. After being in there for 5 years there are no signs of any deposits in the tube although it needs a good cleaning, being slimy to touch. Haven't investigated the block itself as I need to get a good direct light source to shine down the block cavity.

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Back on the 15th March BDC posted this "Mal, what does the red hexagon mean?" in response to this post on the same day containing a flyer for our upcoming Packard National Rally. I didn't know so left the question unanswered until now, when an emailed copy of the August 2015 issue of The Caribbean Courier, Newsletter of The Florida Packard Club, contained this:

About the Packard Hexagon
As a side note, some historians credit the Model L as not only the first Packard to feature the company's famous yoke shaped radiator, but also her red hexagon hub caps. That was not the case. The first hex hubcaps appeared a couple of models later on the Model S. They were designed as an indent in the rear hubcap to facilitate using a special tool to remove the cap. For cosmetic purposes, the front cap featured the same indented hex, but served no practical purpose. The hexagons in the caps were actually painted black from the factory, not red. However, whenever the wheels were serviced by the factory or an authorized dealer, the hexagons were painted red to signify maintenance. The red was so attractive that Packard decided to make it their standard. Reportedly around 1940, the company was planning a modification, but there was such uproar from customers, they decided to continue with no changes to their famous icon.

Now I know, although there's a faint memory stirring that I may have heard/seen this story before.

Mal, You are a very naughty rabbit!.. You should place the RTV compound on the inside only of the manifold gasket..if at all. The Outside of the manifold gasket is graphite coated to allow the exhaust manifold to SLIDE ACROSS the gasket as it heats up. If you LOCK the gasket surface the exhaust manifold will tear the gasket apart as previously experienced. This is also true for persons unfortunate enough to have been conned into surfacing the manifold faces on a milling machine..leaving circular grooves which grip the manifold gasket and destroy it. You have bolted it up now so let's see how it goes. I speak from experience with my 38 Richards Six. .Best Regards PT

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Peter,

Hmmm, don't think I've been called "a very naughty rabbit" before whatever can that mean?

This post, back in 2010, was the previous time the manifolds were bolted up to the block although "Stag" was used then not RTV. Like you say, we'll have to "see how it goes".