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Marvin posted a photo of his seat in the second photo in this post. You can see most of the brackets the front of the actuators are pinned to. You can't see it in the photo and I cannot speak directly to a regular seat but on the Caribbean seat the brackets appear to be formed from a length of U channel. Just the top end is welded to the seat frame. Lower end is effectively unsupported and in the Caribbean seat the brackets actually flex a small amount when the actuator limit is reached. The fact they are fairly close together also makes trying to hammer the pins out both difficult and I do believe a few misplaced blows could crack the welds. On the Caribbean, the actuators and motors are coved with a flat piece of carpeted sheetmetal also screwed to the frame and brackets.

That you, Howard, and I remember that thread as anything related to power seats catches my attention! However, I don’t see anything there that is what I am looking for and the next page where the seat is out shows a bit more but still nothing I can recognize as the anchor.

In the meantime, can anyone please supply the locational dimensions for the 9th bolt? I’m sure I can estimate it reasonably well but I would prefer a finite location which is the machinist in me.

Not following what you mean by anchor;. Those U shaped brackets support the motor and gear part of the actuator via 5/16 roll pins thru the holes in the brackets and the holes visible at the front of the casting on your actuator mechanism. The up/down actuator you show in your seat standing up photo is normally rotated 90 degrees to where it is in the photo and if the motor was attached it would point straight up.. In operation with the seat bolted to the floor the hole would run parallel with the seat width and motor would be pointing to the passenger side.

On the diagram you posted, there is nothing for the lowermost actuator to push or pull against unless it's anchored to something. On the assembly I got, it's just hanging out into space. Of course, I've not examined it thoroughly yet so maybe it does its anchoring some other way but right now I can freely turn the gearbox which doesn't seem right.

Here's out of a 55:youtube.com/watch?v=aKmAYTEuSuY

The reaction force for the worm drive is against the bracket that holds the motor, so if that's disconnected, the motor can spin around the worm.

The short up/dn actuator worm rear end is pinned to a piece of linkage on the left track assy not visible in the drawing. The worm pulling or pushing that linkage causes the frame mounting portion of the left seat track to move up and down as well as rotates the long bars to carry the motion over to the right side track to keep it in sync. It doesn't show in Pgh Ultra's video so unless he can take a photo of that specific area or someone else has a seat out it is going to be difficult to get a good photo of exactly where it attaches. The front back actuator is missing but its worm end is pinned to the sheet metal plate in another U shaped arrangement which is in the area above the hole and just in front of the stud which goes thru the floor.

Thank you! Great video and hope you don't mind my using a screen capture from it. On the actuator in question, it looks like the anchor tabs on the end are just hanging in space so what keeps the motor from rotating? This might be one of those things that will make sense when I go to install it but I would like to understated it in advance, especially as it's so different from the 1954 type with which I am more familiar.

Look at the seat frame itself and see if you don't have some U shaped bar like brackets welded on and hanging down like those in Marvin's photo I linked.

I'll have to check tomorrow as it's 21 degrees out and the shop is a block or so away in the pitch dark. However, I don't see anything like that in the photo I posted but that doesn't mean it's not there! What I do see is an actuator that spins freely so I'm trying to determine what supports it.

One of my goals this visit is to put in the upper row of trim holes for the passenger side front Deluxe fender so I removed the driver side in order to take measurements. I wasn’t sure how it was attached but I was sure there were more than clips and sure enough, the front had a stud and nut retainer. Of course, it pretty much fell apart which is good because I was unable to turn the nut to loosen it so the trim came right off. At first I thought it might be accessible through the headlight but that was not the case although someone had gained access to the area at some point when the car was still in my California front yard.

For the measurements, probably the best thing is to also remove the lower pieces and they have to come off anyway but feeling inside they seem to have more studs and nuts so I’m not sure if I can get them off or not at this time. I didn’t get a chance to try today but we’ll see tomorrow.

I forgot to look at the power seat frame so will also try to remember that tomorrow.

I ended up drilling out the clip which was the easiest way to remove it.