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hmmmmmmmmmmm.......

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Vas ist Hmmmmm??? Too much throat going into too little hole mixed with awkward spacing on the air cleaner sheetmetal -- or is that light bulb going off giving you other expensive ideas?

Dual quads are great for conversation pieces and smiling contests but that's about all. Mostly useless for even high speed operation under 120 mph or under say 5000 rpm.

But if u plan to put the engine in a hiway tractor to haul steel from Pittsburgh to Detroit, or plan to pull a 9000 pound trailer thru the rockies at 70 to 90 mph then the dualquads may very well serve some marginal advantage.

Dual quads are great for conversation pieces and smiling contests but that's about all.

I surely can't agree with that, not one bit. Yes, it's a conversation piece and yes, it was important to advertise more horsepower in the top-line car (Caribbean) to remain competitive, but the cars with dual quads, properly set up and synchronized, are just pure delight to drive. If you never open the secondaries you wouldn't know it had dual quads, and when you do, you do know.

Now just what the driving experience will be with the setup pictured above, I have no idea. But the Caribbean setup was refined and very driveable. Can't say about performance at 5000 rpm or 120 mph, I never go anywhere near that and think you'd be a fool to do so in a $90,000+ car that's well over a half-century old.

nah these are direct replacement tbi efi units by FAST EZ-EFI. they self learn and while they do have a lot of CFM, they curve everything and learn over time how to handle the car based on inputs you select. its idiot proof. all of the hot rodders do this now over carbs.

as for the spacing...they are identical to the carbs, air cleaner would bolt right down on top.

yeah I know it isn't pure or old school or true to Packard, but I've been having a hell of a time with the carb on my dart and I'm switching over to MSD atomic efi soon on it. plus my Packard is far from pure at this point anyways, while not as bojangled as others. The ignition on it is not stock points either, so meh....who cares if I update to EFI too.

I already have the dual carb intake and the air cleaner. I just happened across this setup because FAST is about the only one that will run dual quads with their ecu unit. everything is self contained, just have to weld a bung in the exhaust for a O2 sensor and obviously no mechanical fuel pump.

even the new repo gas tanks have a drain bung at the bottom that can be repurposed for a return fuel line.

to get the carbs redone would be about 1600. I can do the efi for under 2800 and never have to mess with it.

I also don't have the correct carbs, they would have to be re-jetted by Daytona to mimic the dual quad setup by Packard. otherwise I'm sure they would be way to much for the motor too.

with the efi it would adjust on the fly for the motor and correct the cfm with fuel. think of it as carb that can adjust itself infinitely (to a point) on the fly and without stopping to change jets one day to the next or having to worry about atmospheric variables.

yeah they have computers, etc, but all of the sensors on this thing are GM and can be bought over the counter at autozone and for cheap.

I think it will go nicely with my cam work and lunati valve springs.

this motor should be capable of north 6500 rpm with the cam/valve springs, but to be honest it is about conversation pieces, because I wont be drag racing or hauling anything with this car. I still plan on using the twin ultramatic.

first dual quad efi Packard v8. sure why not.

the only thing I would have to do is convert to negative ground. womp womp on that. I know others have done it though. not sure how that affects the generator...or maybe I'd have to have an alternator. or the starter, lighting, gauges....blugh

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All you have to do is repolarize the generator and make sure there are no pos ground solid state items such as fuel pumps, radio vibrator replacements etc installed. Your Clipper has no ammeter so no wires to reverse on it and if the TL control box is original then OK. Unsure about the solid state TL switch replacements. Some vendors say the switches are not polarity specific others give no info.

Everything else that is stock will work but you might check the regulator. Some originals of the period are specific and work better when properly oriented while universal aftermarket replacements usually do not care. Same with the coil so any wire changes depends on type of igintion.

the TL control box is stock original 55.

generator has not been polarized yet.

voltage regulator is stock 55, so positive ground...but wouldn't a 56 regulator work?

the one thing I did purchase that is for positive ground and solid state is the pertronix unit. I'd have to replace it with the 56 unit.

I plan on either rebuilding the stock wiring harness from scratch or going with what KevAZ did and use the painless system.

what about the voltage regulator for the dash gauges? if I go with negative ground I can use the same solid state one I put on my Dart when I rebuilt it.

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If stock it is mechanical -- just a heater wire wound over a bimetal strip -- so won't care.

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A 56 Clipper regulator should work but I would try yours first. It may be the kind that doesn't care that much. After you repolarize the generator if the charging doesn't seem right then look to the regulator. NOS 56 may be expensive if the vendors even have any. Good used may not be as cost effective or as reliable a choice as an aftermarket replacement.

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New Echlin voltage regulators still available thru NAPA; for 1956 Packards they are VR200 for Autolite and VR122 for Delco.