Re: Bad news from my compression test I think....how can car STILL refuse to start?
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Now I at least know FOR SURE what to poke with a wrench! So whats my next move after removing the other valve cover and seeing whats going on over there....then what!?
Posted on: 2012/9/9 18:55
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Re: Bad news from my compression test I think....how can car STILL refuse to start?
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Good question. The substance of choice is probably carburetor cleaner as its about the only thing that will cut the gum from the bad gas. I recommend Berkebile, which most parts stores carry. Lay a mess of rags in the bottom of the valve chambers so you don't wash all the crap down into your crankcase.
I'd spray cleaner up the valve stem as best possible and let it sit a while. Then I would pry the valve down if it will come, and wash its stem with some more cleaner. Pry it back up and do it again til it will fall from its own spring tension. This may take several attempts as the area with the gum is far above where you are working. If you can't get any joy this way, you will have to take the manifolds off and do your spraying through the ports so the cleaner can get on the upper part of the valve stem. Taking the head off is actually the last resort. When you do get it running again, I think a couple of cans of two-stroke oil in the new, fresh gas might help get everything well loosened up.
Posted on: 2012/9/9 19:42
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Re: Bad news from my compression test I think....how can car STILL refuse to start?
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If it were me, I would pull the head off, won't hurt to clean the carbon off the head, pistons & valves. You can spray penetrating oil into the stuck valves & try to tap them down. If you succeed then spray carb cleaner on the valve stem to get the gunk out and relubricate again. You can work all the valves by turning the engine over.Most of the time it's the dry gunk that freezes up the valves.
Posted on: 2012/9/9 19:44
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Re: Bad news from my compression test I think....how can car STILL refuse to start?
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THose particular pics won't load on my funky computer hear. Based on other's replies i assume there are stuck valves. So at this point all we really want to do is free up the valves, not overhaul an engine that may not need an overhaul. Removing the head is unneccessary and too invasive at this point.
Some will forwn on this idea but i've used it many times: THe valve if stuck real hard, may not simply drive/pry up and down. Usualy they have to be twisted while driving/prying up or down. Put a pair of vice grips on the lower stem end of the valve. In some cases the vice grips can be place arpund the spring collar. Now don;t try to grip anything wit h the vice grips like a 900 pound gorrilla. Go at it a bit slowly, increase vice grip tension as u go along. NOTE THAT THE end of the valve stem is usually hardened and therefore the vice grips will leave no or extreme slight marks. This will allow u too twist the valve in it's guide. Again, do not attempt to twist it like a 900 pound gorilla. If u can get the valve to move even just .005" inch it WILL eventualy free up with judicous twisting and prying/driving. IN some cases, the spring and collar may neeed to be removed. Not sure if spring and collar will remove from this application without removing valve (which obviously would not be possible at this point).. The problem with removing head at this point is that the head is on studs. That means that some of the studs may be extremely rusted to the head which means getting the head freed up mite be more a PIA than freeing the valves. Also requires draining block at least half way down.
Posted on: 2012/9/9 20:04
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VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7245 |
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Re: Bad news from my compression test I think....how can car STILL refuse to start?
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ALSO note that on my 288 the EXHAUST valves are dirently under the spark plug. So that will give u access to (I will say TAP NOT drive) TAP the valve down as u twist it a little bit from the tappet chamber. Go at it gradualy. Don't try to move it all at once.
Once freed up then continue with snake oil and work the valve up and down many many times. How many valves are stuck and are they Exh or Int ????
Posted on: 2012/9/9 20:16
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VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7245 |
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Re: Bad news from my compression test I think....how can car STILL refuse to start?
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If the spark plug holes are above the valves, would it help him to pour a bunch of carb cleaner in the spark plug holes?
Posted on: 2012/9/9 20:18
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Re: Bad news from my compression test I think....how can car STILL refuse to start?
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No carb cleaner. It mite eat away at the comp head gasket.
Posted on: 2012/9/9 20:27
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VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7245 |
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Re: Bad news from my compression test I think....how can car STILL refuse to start?
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Pics finally loaded. Are those the only stuck valves??? They appear to be exhaust only. U could have probably freed those by only tapping thru the spark plug hold.
Posted on: 2012/9/9 20:29
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VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7245 |
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Re: Bad news from my compression test I think....how can car STILL refuse to start?
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Once the valves are freed up then do NOT install the valve cover YET. Start the engine with valve covers REMOVED. Run the engine for a while. Do this several times over a period of 2 or 3 days to make sure the valves do not sieze again. Then put it back together.
Posted on: 2012/9/9 20:35
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VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=7245 |
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