Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

FWIW, I replaced the steel core plugs with brass on my 34 about 10 years ago. Within 2 years they were all seeping coolant. I never did ascertain the reason for their failure but replaced them with steel and no problems since. Doubt it was the installation, same person installed both sets in the same manner, using a professional core plug installer tool. The failure of the brass plugs remains a mystery.

Well, brass probably is overkill, in any event, especially given that most of us use only soft water and a good rust and corrosion inhibitor. But thanks for the peace of mind for those of us who have steel plugs. Anyone else have trouble with brass seeping? You'd t h i n k brass, being softer, would make a better seal, but live and learn.

Regardless what you do on your plugs, make sure to avoid distilled water, which is ion hungry, and leaches minerals--the last thing you want in a cooling system. Mercedes-Benz issued a warning against distilled water in cooling systems to all their service departments back in 1989, and about the same time, a Chrysler engineer member writing in the Auburn-Cord-Duesenberg Newsletter made the same warning, also reminded members that antifreeze over time breaks down and forms a heat-transfer-reducing film, which is why, if you can, avoid antifreeze like the plague. 'Course, for some of you living in the tundra, that's hardly an option.

I'm not connected with the company in any way other than a longtime user, so i 'umbly recommend www.no-rosion.com and their Rust and Corrosion Inhibitor. Have used nothing but in my '47 Super Clipper, as have Cord friends, and those things, with their flimsy aluminum heads, are poster cars for problems. American Jaguars.

I plan on using Evans High Performance coolant. It's lifetime, and waterless.
evanscooling.com/products/coolants/

Evans is 100% glycol, which doesn't transfer heat nearly as well. Using 100% glycol raises cylinder head temperatures tremendously, calling for increased octane, ignition retarding, resultant loss of horsepower. Other than the safety issues, there's a reason race cars use pure water, despite any antifreeze company sponsor decals. Race cars need thermal efficiency for their smaller radiators, lower CD ratings. Avoid Evans and, IF your car is not exposed to sustained hard freeze, antifreeze like the plague.

If your car has air conditioning, even if you live in Phoenix or LA, you'll still need 10-15% antifreeze to protect the heater core even in August.

But otherwise, if you value your Packards as the serious road cars they can be, avoid glycol.

For optimum cooling, I've had good results with water plus the prescribed dose of Redline WaterWetter. I use that in my stroked 408 10.5:1 compression Mustang, and I'm sure it will work well in the Packard. Since this is my first Packard, I haven't had it long enough for a testimony, but I feel pretty secure installing steel plugs with Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound, and running the whole flushed and cleaned out system on water and WaterWetter.

redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10

FYI, I don't work for Redline, never have, and don't know anyone who has.

Other water pump news:

Today I took my water pump over to my friend's machine shop, to get the shaft pressed out and to install my new Merritt water pump rebuild kit. I had removed the back plate from the pump, media blasted everything, run taps and dies on the bolts and nuts, and was anticipating installing my fresh water pump tonight.

Things didn't work out that way.

The fan hub didn't want to come off. Using an electric hydraulic press, we first tried a bearing removal tool underneath the hub, and were bending the bolts on that. Then we pressed on the shaft where it stuck out of the hub, and had success moving the bearing in the housing. Pressing until the hub touched the snout, we decided to continue to attempt to press the shaft after heating the hub. It was working until we stopped to get something to catch the hot impeller and shaft when it released and fell out the bottom of the press. When we resumed pressing the shaft, the socket that was positioned on the shaft had moved off center, and it caught the edge of the hub, cracking the casting.

I tried to save a few bucks, and now I have to buy a pump and pay the core charge. I'm returning the rebuild kit, of course.

Anyone out there have a junk (but buildable) water pump they would like to donate to a good cause? Please let me know- I'll pay shipping...

West, Evans coolant is not all it's cracked up to be. There can be issues with its use in old cars. Check this out:norosion.com/evanstest.htm

I for one would never run 100% glycol in my old cars. Their engines are built for straight water coolant. Running anything else will cause problems.

Their engines are built for straight water coolant.

(Edited). I guess I have a little problem with that statement, though plain water gives better heat transfer (efficiency) than any of the glycols. Packards were sold in many climates that required anti-freeze protection and their owner's manuals were as times quite specific about what was acceptable. Depending on the era, they made recommendations for methanol, glycerine, and glycol. Methanol ("Zerone") was quite commonly used in the era of "winterfronts".

Yes, depending on the era, methanol or glycol was recommended. I'm speaking relative to the older era of cars, in which methanol was recommended.

Quote:

Here's the response I got from Evans:

Water does transfer heat better, but it also boils and when internal metal temps get hot, the boiling water produces steam pockets in the system that can lead to hot spots in the heads and cylinders.

The Evans product has a higher boiling point, 375F, so it stays a liquid all the time. Consequently, it pulls more heat from internal metals, which in turn, leave behind cooler internal temps. Your gauge won't sense those temps as most gauges have the sensor located near the top outlet hose. So if Evans' coolant is pulling more heat from internal metals, you may see higher temps on the gauge, but the temperature of the coolant is being measured at its hottest point, when it is LEAVING the engine. You are not gauging the temps of the coolant inside the engine.

You may see warmer temps, you may see no change, or you may see lower temps. Way too many variables to know exactly what your car will do. All temp gauges are actually a reference. That sensor for the gauge DOES NOT sit in a still pond of coolant, it sits in a river of constant movement, and that's why you can see temps rise and fall.