Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

IDK. At this point i'm more likely to want to kill the alternator with a fuse than to kill the rest of car. OR we could get really carried away and install an engine rpm limiter when amperage exceeds something like 50 amps????

I think that's a good solution and was touched upon in a thread several months ago.

Instead of using the original short brown wire from alternator and then jumper to the red wire at the regulator to use all original wiring, connect a fusible link of 40amps or so in place of the brown wire or do as Kev did and gut and place a fuse inside the regulator.

That would still allow some added capacity for the AC or whatever needs, protect the original wiring to some extent, and if something did happen would only kill the alternator output, not the entire electrical system.

Just for clarification, I replaced all the wiring in my car with a new aftermarket GM style harness which uses many of the exact same wire colors that Packard did (same supplier).

I just routed all the wiring in the original style and locations to help maintain the original look. Except the obvious alternator, and the ballast resistor, most of it looks bone stock.

All in all i'm still wondering if our concerns about the 50 amp or 100 amp alternator VS a OEM 30 amp generator is less than what we make those concerns to be.

The real answer mite be to look at a relatively more modern PRODUCTION automobile equiped as OEM alternator. Look at the wire gauge and and diagrams. Mite also need some chart of rpm vs alternator output would be helpful.

Pays to watch the ammeter anyway.

The only issue in play I think is really the path between the ALT and the battery feed. If the battery is low, and the ALT is kicking out a lot of AMPs to bring it back up, then that feed needs to be able to handle that.

Regardless of how much juice the Alt puts out, the battery always can supply more AMPs at one time then the ALT can ever dream of. So if something "shorts" on the main harness, its the Amperage that is coming primarily from the battery, not the actual alternator or generator that going to fry something.

The ALT is like a garden hose. The battery is like a fire hose as far as AMP supply is concerned.

I apologize for being repetitive here, but the OEM generator supplied all the current this car needs (and more), even it had AC. The comment was made that the owner was tired to having to get jump-started. Well, either the battery is failing (which an alternator won't solve), or the generator or regulator needs attention. Determining whether generator or regulator is duck soup, and regulators are available from NAPA and others, and generator service is easy to find most anywhere. Why not just find the problem, and fix it. An alternator will add not significant benefit to the driveability of the car; yes, your headlights will be a bit brighter when you're stopped at a traffic light or stop sign, that's about it.

Totally agree with O_D. Keep it as close to original as possible. If it worked well from Packard, there is no reason it should not work well today. Find the problem and correct it.
Just my $0.02...........................

If I replaced the gen, I would use a circuit breaker, instead of fuse,

put it under dash so you could reset it while driving.

also you can put a current limiting resistor in line. I guess google how to limit current ,,sure there is a diagram,

here is one.

adjust parts for current load needed

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Ummm...thats 70ma..... that would fry in seconds. I frankly just dont think you need any of that. Just adding complexity where it's not needed. A new wire from the ALT to the Starter BAT terminal is all that is needed. If you are really worried, just get an ALT from older 60s GM car. They only out about 45amps or so.

Or, as others have said, just get the generator and VR tested and fixed as needed.