Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Thanks for the thoughts on the magnet, we did have one but it wasn't particularly strong.

Moving along on the job, all the valves but one are OEM Packard-logo Rich, the other being a Packard-logo Eaton. All the exhausts had been previously cut and will be replaced, not enough margin to reface again, and one exhaust had a crack in the face. All the intakes are fine, as are the seats, still nice and narrow too! I'll power-grind the seats with my Sioux refacer tools.

One guide, same cylinder as with the cracked valve, had a guide which was cracked and mushroomed at the top, and badly worn to boot. It was easily removed with the K-D Packard valve guide drift, and we may change some others as well. Unlike some of the later engines, the intake and exhaust guides are different, and the style changed in mid-1938 to provide a relief at the top to minimize sticking. The two styles are set to different heights, well diagramed in the 1938 shop manual.

Once you start, where do you stop? Decided to re-gasket the manifolds at the same time. May or may not need surface grinding, have yet to check.

Such fun, even though it's not my own car.

EDIT - should have noted it's a 90,000 mile car, at least it's second valve job, perhaps even the 3rd as intervals of 25,000 to 40,000 miles is pretty typical for these engines.

Are replacement tubes available or specs.?

When one is removing the remanents of the water distribution tube, would it be advisable to replace the "freeze plugs" for better access for probing in the water jacket?

Same for the head?

What did you replace the tube with?


Lowell
39 S8

Though some Chrysler and other makers used steel water distribution tubes (probably galvanized), I believe the ones Packard used were always brass. So unless it was for some reason replaced with a steel (aftermarket, like Dorman) unit or otherwise damaged, they usually just require removal and cleaning, not replacement. Yes, replacements are available if you need one.

As to removing core plugs to help clean water jackets, sure if you've got an overheating condition, removing them to help clean and flush is a good idea.

If you look at my project blog you can see the tube I removed. They are all "basically" the same. As it's thin brass you just need to be gentle with it. Otherwise it would be ok to reuse unless someone damaged it previously.

I'm of the opinion that if anyone wants to remake these they should make them out of stainless steel. Gauge for gauge, it would be stiffer and a heck of a lot more durable than the original brass.

Quote:

Eric,

Wouldn't stainless be more susceptible to galvanic corrosion than brass? On boats that ride the ocean, through-hull valves are brass for this reason, I believe. Maybe that isn't a problem?

Thanks,

Tom

I would think that would be more of a salt water issue than a galvanic issue. Even with the brass tube, as long as you use a good quality antifreeze you should have no major issues. Remember back in the day most antifreeze was water and alcohol, with no real anti-corrosion additives. And even when glycol antifreeze came out, I would imagine that some people who were set in their ways didn't change to the new stuff, as they were used to the "it has always worked before so I'll keep on using it" mentality.

Lowell,

Am I to understand you are asking about a water distribution tube for a 39 Super 8? If so, I am afraid you misunderstand where this is located on your engine. Unlike the long sheet metal tube on the 245, 282, 288, 327, 356, 359, your 320 has a removable cover on the left side of the engine that distributes water flow. There is no such tube behind the water pump on that family of engine.

[quote]
Owen_Dyneto wrote:
the 320 has a removable cover on the left side of the engine that distributes water flow. There is no such tube behind the water pump on that family of engine.

Thanks,

Lowell