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good point again on if it is made for just autometer gauges, but i'm about 90% sure it would work with any newer gauge as the bulbs now all seem to be a standard size.

the 3/8 is correct as i put in a 3/8 pipe plug. so the male end on the link is correct, but i was talking about the 5/8-18 female end if that is the right thread for the bulb connector.

i also cannot find any cheaper, nor any other manufacturer other then autometer that makes those extenders.

put the original guage bulb back in. ran the car for about 30 min. this is in a garage with no air flow, no electric fan and lower 70s outside. held 185...and finally went up a git near the end of the run to 190. this is with a 180 thermostat. i'd say not bad. oil psi looks good. it should come down some once i set the correct idle and timing as i did them both by ear. my timing light is at my storage facility.

I think I have a miss though. i think it is the old spark plug wires crossfiring. i plan on new spark plug wires as well. just using the old for now.

i tried to take video of the exhaust so you could hear the miss, but i'm not sure if it came over well on the video. I did the balance a nickel trick and you can see it shake, maybe the illustrates what i'm talking about.

if you were there in person and could hear the exhaust you would know what i was talking about.

also a video of that lifter ticking again after i worked it out. i'll take another stab at it again soon.

also those lights my Grandfather put on the firewall are the best freaking thing one could add on.

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Lifter clatter sounds to me like its more than 1 tappet out of adjustment.

very well could be, i differ to those with a tuned ear for such things considering i have never set tappets before. so thanks for listening to the video.

when i did get the noise to go away it was only the one. i took a feeler gauge and went one by one inserting it with the car running until i got to that particular one and it stopped making noise and everything sounded good. i adjusted it and ran the car again and it was quiet, but it seems to keep coming back. maybe i'm not getting the locking nut tight enough. idk.

could it be that the heat cycles are getting them out of wack since they are new?

Henry,
Watching the 3rd video, that fan blade rotation is kind of mesmerizing. It looks like it rotates, and then catches up on the rotation. Maybe my eyes or the video.

Keep up the good work!

I think it must be the framerate of the video. i'll have to watch in person, but i dont remember seeing that in real life. pretty cool effect though.

happy to report the front end of the car is now all bolted back on.

also happy to report that I'm glad HH mentioned those head stud nuts and torqueing them again after heat cycles. I checked every nut and bolt on the motor and you would think I didn't tighten them to begin with. crazy. I tightened every one I could get to.

water neck was seeping coolant, tightened it. tighten, tighten, tighten all over the motor.

one of the freeze plugs is seeping as well....hopefully that will crud up on its own and seal. its the center one. not really sure how to fix that without popping it out, loosing tons of expensive evans coolant, and putting in a new one. so, we will see if more heat cycles will seal it on its own. I have seen that happen on other cars I've had.

I can tell you my paint job on the motor has taken a hell of a beating and some touch up will be required once I get all this figured out.

carb may need to be sent out for rebuild as well. all in due time.

I really need to stop being such a perfectionist and so hard on myself. I keep loosing focus of the fact that I'm going to actually use this car quite a bit and it's never going to be perfect.

There is no need to lose expensive coolant. Put a pan/pail under the drain cock beneath the radiator or rear block drain plug and drain the coolant. When repair is finished either refill with coolant or use water until you're sure of integrity of system.

Fred has the right idea on saving the coolant. Look for a plastic oil change container -- the kind that is sort of rectangular like a jerry can and has a sloped tray and opening molded into one side that can lay flat. There is a black one that holds 4-5 gallons. Being relatively thin it fits under nicely and the wide tray catches well.

When I was playing with the 56 AC and did the Ross mods in the Ultra put one under the radiator to catch the coolant and used another one under the trans to save the fluid. As long as you get one with a snug cap on that tray side opening the cans can be stood upright and contents stored safely. Label appropriately so they are not mixed up the next time you need to use them.

I'd be interested to hear your decision process on the selection of Evans Coolant, there is a bit of controversy surrounding it.