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The no-named bezel (with no embossed label) is probably not Packard nor Clipper at all. Probably Studebaker or F or Gm or something else.

Hey Kev,

I can't imagine you would get any grief over running your nicer labeled bezel; unless it is wood grained!

Good point Jim! I am sure the alternator and A/C setup would help to draw the attention away!

Now I just have to find another retainer nut. I will call Paul up at Dan's place and see what he may have in the parts cache.

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Nice thought but don't think so. I also have a blank one with slots just like Kevs that was on a headlight switch. Don't know which year as knob not attached but can assure you that no elderly brand x parts were ever mixed in. There were Studes around but those that were had rocker switches or their toggle switches used a larger thread and small round bezel.

Big Kev: I am sure glad that you started this blog on what you are doing on your 54.

Next year when I retire your blog will be a good thing for me to refer to. As like the conversion to 12 volt system and the electrical wipers.


John F. Shireman

Well today after sleeping for 12 hours to try to catch up, I decided that it was nice weather to go work in the garage. It's about 65 degrees out there and sunny. Finally weather I like!

So today was all about getting the gas tank out. So shimmed my big-butt back underneath the car and first gave all the strap bolts and gas line fitting another dousing of PB Blaster.

First think was to break loose the tank fitting. I came loose with the help of a flare nut wrench.

The gas filler pipe goes under the frame, while the vent hose goes over the frame. So is required to remove this hose to drop the tank. As the hose was 50 years old, it wasn't just going to slip off as it was petrified. So I cut the hose in the middle and removed one of the original style hose clamps and pull that section of hose loose.

Next it was back to the strap bolts. I broke lose the first double nut on the passenger side, and when trying to do the same on the drivers side, the entire T-Bolt turned and broke loose from the it's holder above the tank, Which caused one side of the tank to drop suddenly. Luckily it only dropped about 4". But it was enough for me to judge that the tank was indeed not empty. So I stacked a couple of rims under the tank to hold the weight while I loosened the other strap.

The I pulled the tank out from underneath the car, and loosened the sender wire. I discovered that for some reason you cant simply pour off the old fuel from the filler tube. There must be some kind of flapper in the bottom of the tank. Put I was able to pour out the fuel through the vent hole. The old fuel was nasty.

I removed the sender unit, pretty rusty. Next I hose off the exterior and rinse out the interior. All kinds of nastiness came out of the tank. Interesting thing after looking down the sender hole is that the rust or varnish is not etched into the metal. Almost like globs of gunk. I think the bottom of the tank is pretty good, but the rust exists on the top underside of the tank. Basically there is rust where there was no sitting fuel. Luckily no holes in the tank. Actually the outside of the tank still looks pretty good besides the grease and dirt.

I tried to run some welding rod down the pick up tube, but after about 10" in, it hit something solid. Not sure if the is tight elbow at the end that is stopping the rod or what.

I will probably end up taking the tank to a radiator shop to get it boiled out.

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That's some nasty looking gunk in the last photo!

I love the coke machine!

I've been looking for a pop machine on CL locally, but they're either junk or way too expensive.

You have to be getting excited with how close you are to starting the engine. A major milestone quickly approaches.

Keegan,

I wish that was a working Coke machine. It's just a plastic replica Ice Chest that I picked up at a yard sale for $5. But it sure looks nice in the garage even though it's a fake.

Yes, really after I get the fuel system squared away, then I should be able to get the motor running.

So to continue work on the fuel system I media blaster the sender and checked it with a multi-meter to see what the OHM range was on it. Looks like about ~8ohms at full up position to ~90ohms at the full down position. Now I just need to check the manual to see if that is in range.

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If you can find it in a manual, you have better ones than I do but those numbers are good.