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Thanks! One editorial note - the house isn't ours, just a good spot for a photo op on island. Fortunately, my neighbors nostrils also aren't offended.

My Old Lady, you better watch THAT! Some might think your talking about the car and that would be a sin.
Only joking, you have a good looking family and building on some great memories.
Enjoy life, kids grow up too fast.
Wes

Timing adjustment: do you typically follow the service manual (static adjustment) or disconnect the vacuum line and use a timing light for a dynamic adjustment?

I tried the latter, and if my light is to be believed, I am WAY out of time. As in, cannot even see the marks through the little peephole out. I checked the timing with the engine warm and the vacuum advance line disconnected.

I pulled the clutch cover, cleaned off the front of the flywheel and marked the TDC and 4 BTDC marks since I have an HC head.

The problem is, it seems like it runs too well to be that far out of time.

I am stumped, any advice is appreciated.

Ken, I first suggest that you make a pointer and mark the vibration damper in order to more easily check the timing. You can fasten a heavy wire to one of the timing chain cover bolts. Get No. 1 to TDC. Then, using the marks on the flywheel, transfer them to the damper. A thin line of white paint works well. Now you can experiment with timing setting more easily than trying to view them through the small port hole under the starter. I did this on my 115C and Mal has also done it on his 41 One-Twenty.

I believe the flywheel can only be installed one way, eliminating that the timing marks are offset by an incorrect installation.

Look forward to hearing how you resolve this.

Also, check your owner's manual for info on how to set and adjust the "Octane Adjuster" on the distributor.

(o[]o)

JW, thanks for the information. I did make sure the fuel compensater was set to zero before inspecting the timing, but I didn't dive any deeper into it. On the road for a couple of weeks, but I'll let you know what I find.

reading through your blog. the flywheel only goes on one way. the bolt holes only line up one way.

I painted my markings with white and same with the pointer. its still a total bitch to see it with the timing light. I had my octane thingy mabob set at zero too. and I set the timing with the VA connected since its connected when its idling normally. I've set timing on cars both ways...VA off and on, seems like it depends on the make. I could not find anything specifying to take it off in the manuals, so I left it on. course it may have just been one of those leave it out of the manual because the mechanic knows this stuff already. idk.

hmmm.....maybe I should go out and check my timing with the VA disconnected and see what happens with that miss I think I may have. I got nothing better to do anyways.

Quote:
The big thing on most dists with setting timing is idle speed. I don't know how different the 37 dist is to the 47 but on 47s I don't find a recommendation for the VA either but they specifically say to have the idle at 4-500rpm and not go above 500 or the centrifugal advance will come in to action. Perhaps that is something to look into.

I just went out and disconnected the VA and tested the timing it was in the same place. there was some vacuum on the line, but it wasn't much.

i cannot get the rpm below 750, the idle screw is backed out all the way. I'm pretty sure my carb is in bad need of a rebuild. i don't think the 37 manual says anything about idle rpm, but if i recall with my short term memory loss....that the mechanical advance kicks in at 1200rpm...i could be wrong and probably am. I was wrong. HH found it at 600rpm

back to this blog. here is a pic of my timing marks that i just took. as you can see it is 2 graduations....or 4 degrees.

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That is hard to see! Thanks for the picture! On the idle speed - I couldn't get mine down either, I found a vacuum leak where the ball had come out of the intake manifold drain line. I plugged that, and presto, idle speed down. Also, do you have your carb leaned out enough? I set mine with a vacuum gage.

I have been up to my eyeballs in graduate work, but the final project is due tomorrow. Once I turn that in, I'll head to the hobby shop for white paint and a paint brush so I can set the timing. I have a car show to go to in 2 weeks, so I need to get it back together! I also have to pack the front wheel bearings, then it'll be time for chrome polishing.

I thInk I have two vacuum leaks. One at the carb linkage shaft and the other at the windshield wipers under the dash. All of the hoses look good so I think it is the mechanism that turns on the wipers. I'm going to plug the soft line going to the vacuum side of the fuel pump to eliminate that source. The carb will need rebushed.

Got an exhaust leak at the weighted valve after getting the new pipes and mufffler put on. I may take it completely off and weld the holes shut. Or fix it with the kit like you did. Who knows what my wacky brain will tell me to do.

The carb mixture screws are about 1-1/2 turns out. Still a bit rich but not nearly as bad as what I started with.

Good luck on the project!!