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I also got the master cylinder removed. It’s in rough shape. The brake kit, complete with all new cylinders should arrive tomorrow. I’m hoping to have some real progress on the brakes this weekend.

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The old parts are worth keeping or offering for sale. They can be rebuilt.

Yep...that is the plan.

Well, the brakes went fairly well…only one glitch to deal with.

I got the master cylinder replaced and got the lines flushed.

Then, I got the front wheels put back together with no issues.

The rear…well, that’s where the glitch comes in. I fought and fought getting the brake lines connected to the cylinders. If I could get them started, they just didn’t feel right. The lines would go right in with the old cylinders, but not the new. This leads me to believe that whoever did the brakes 20 years ago cross threaded the cylinders.

So….I pulled the brake lines out. I’ll get new fittings for the lines. I should be able to cut off the flare, replace the fitting and re-flare the line. I have enough length and I should only be removing less than a 1/4 in.

So close, but so far away! Hopefully, I can finish up tomorrow.

Before you alter anything on the car, be sure the new fittings fit the new wheel cylinders properly.

In most cases, damaged threads will show visible evidence of damage from cross threading, etc.

Some China-made threads do not seem to be of any particular size.

Exactly…that’s what I’ve been doing…I figured out the problem. I’ll be calling Kanter. They sent incorrect wheel cylinders for the rear.

My car should have different model number wheel cylinders for each wheel.

First, there is left and right to account for the line entry angle.

Then, the front use 7/16-20 threads for the rubber hose line entry.

The rear use 7/16-24 threads for the hard line entry.

Kanter sent two left with 7/16-20 and two right 7/16-20 cylinders.

Option 1 - have Kanter send the correct wheel cylinders for the rear…..preferred option

Option 2 - find 7/16-20 to 7/16-24 adapters.

So, while I wait to call Kanter in the morning and get the correct wheel cylinders (and a few springs), I’ve done some tinkering.

I decided to take the heater/defroster out. I found that I’m missing a bottoms piece from the heater. Let me know if anyone has one. I mostly took the heater out to give me more room to do the under-dash wiring. Since I had it out, I decided to test Bo the fans. WhooHooo! They are both still working!

Also, just for fun, I decided to try my hand at making new brake lines for the rear to the wheels. I figured if it didn’t work out, I could put the old ones back on. The old ones work fine, but just weren’t done very neatly. Really just an inexpensive way to learn something new. Took a few practice attempts with the flaring tool, but I think I got it.

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You are not missing anything on the bottom of the heater.

And on a separate note, interesting to see a single outlet defroster where one most often sees dual outlet. Really no suprise as with the success of the 37 model year, the Factory ran out of the round heaters and transitioned to this "later" style, used 39 and 39, which had dual defroster openings to the windshield.

It looks like the right hand outlet was not on the first 37 cars but had a fairly early availability. Does not say if it was or if so, how long it was optional though. This from the Jan 1, 37 service letter.

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Thanks, Kevin. I was thinking something was missing due to the two screws at the bottom. I need to take a closer look at what those are for.