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Found a (probably temporary) solution to my warped rear drum. An old car guy came over and we heated the steel part of the drum up with a torch, then carefully hammered the warped areas until they were close to back in spec.

The metal between the hub and cast iron ring where the shoes ride is steel, so it can be bent. We had the drum on the axle so that it could be centered while we checked and hammered. No force was transferred to the axle that I could tell....I had my hand on the opposite axle while we did a couple test hits and not a thing was felt.

After eyeballing on the axle, I took the drum down to NAPA and they were able to turn it. There was a decent groove worn in from the old shoes rubbing on the warped drum in the past. Not ideal, I know, but I'm going to roll with it for a while.

Axle tested out okay.

-Kevin

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  Driver's rear drum warped.jpg (132.03 KB)


  Driver's rear brake drum straightened.jpg (96.46 KB)


  Warped brake drum turned.jpg (75.34 KB)


  Wear groove in driver's drum.jpg (93.63 KB)

Good deal Kevin. That fact that the parts store was able to turn the drum is significant. Now the braking surface is concentric with the hub, and should be fine. Keep your eye out for a good replacement just in case, but good chance you won't need it.

Good save Kevin

We’re your drums 11” or 12”? If 12?, I might have one but not sure it would fit a Clipper.

Thanks guys. It should work, though I know it's not ideal. But good to know that drums can sometimes be salvaged. Just another trick to keep in mind.

Don - the drums are 12". According the parts list, the drums for the Panama are one year, Panama-only. Not sure if other drums would fit. I'm in touch with a guy in California and he might have a drum. I'll see how this one does first, but probably wouldn't be a bad idea to pick up a spare.

-Kevin

Interesting and I can't imagine why it would be different! I've noticed that for 1954, many parts seem specific to that year or even to certain models of that year. Even on Henney, for example, the rear door has a different part number and I can see no differences whatsoever between then (I have one of each) and the same with the rear axle assembly.

The point is (and just food for thought), the differences in the drum might be something like using a different bearing with a larger or smaller outer diameter or even a different type bearing and if it is something as simple as that (and as long as they friction surface is the same width), any 1951-1954 12" would fit! Of course, it's best to get one specific to your model.

Did you look for a 2611, 1953 deluxe drums, or did I read the parts book wrong?
Isn’t that the same parts number for the rear drum you are looking for?

Well, shoot... you're right. When I looked through the parts book it only had #443638 listed for the 5411 (Panama). Normally it lists all models with that part number. 2611 was listed separately.

-Kevin

They are often listed separately when there is some difference in the models. In this case, apparently the two 1953 models had 12' drums by default while for 1954, only some did so they have separate entries. In any event, when you look up parts in the database version of the parts book, click on the part number which may bring up some surprises!

Tires showed up yesterday, so I took everything down to a local tire shop at lunch and had them all mounted. Balancing weights on the inside, and I kept one of the old tires to use as a spare. It cleaned up nicely and will work, though it is the wrong size for the car.

Picked up the mounted tires after work and get them on the car. Torqued the wheel lugs to 95 ft/lbs. Also torqued the rear axle nuts to within the specified range (200-270 ft lbs). The driver's side torqued to 235 where the cotter pin hole lined up. The passenger side got to 220 at the hole. Cotter pins installed.

Did most of the major brake adjustment per Ross's video on YouTube. I need to fine tune it a bit, but I think I have it close. I don't really have a good idea of how much the shoes should drag on the drums, so I'm trying to do exactly what he did in the video.

Brakes get bled tonight, then tune up and road testing tomorrow hopefully.

Two questions:
1.) I want to take the heater core out of the cooling system circuit for now. There is a leak in it and I will need to get it fixed, but that's further down the list. I also have not restored the heater valve I got from Ross...the car came without one. Can I just connect the hose from the water pump outlet to the top of the block, or do I need to shut-off valve between those two spots?

2.) What is the size of steel line for the vacuum lines coming off the fuel pump? 3/16" or 1/4"? I'd like to get those vacuum lines made and put on the car before I button everything up and get the car back to my house.

-Kevin

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  Taking everything to get mounted.jpg (145.69 KB)


  New shoes for the Panama.jpg (131.80 KB)


  Spare in the trunk.jpg (145.03 KB)


  Axle nut torqued.jpg (105.25 KB)