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Excellence! Thanks Dave, Gerd and Ross.
The Wheel ends are back together, new wheel cylinders are in and I did some cleaning and lubing of the contact points. Now to bend and flare new lines.

Here is a question: On the rear drums, should the cone surface of the axle that mates to the drum have some lubriplate, or other anti-seeze, or other oil? I guess you don't want the drum to rust on there, but you also don't want things slipping around. A light smear of copper paste perhaps?

The taper should be fitted clean and DRY, NO lube, anti-sieze compound, or anything else.

My axles had anti-seize all over the tapers when I first pulled the axles off. I was advised to remove it all, which I did, and the drums went back on clean and dry axles.

Thank you two very much! I will keep that taper nice and clean.

The drums and wheel cylinders went back together a few weeks ago. Now the rebuilt (thanks Ross) Treadlevac is going back in, along with all new cunifer brake lines and hoses. My planned deadlines for getting this car on the road are slipping, but it will get done eventually.

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Allright, making some progress here. I flared and bent all the brake lines, bled the system and so far nothing is leaking. I did a "major" brake adjustmen, and hope the brakes work well.
I finally got the car back on the ground, and noticed that my front suspension seems a little high. I jumped on the bumper a few times, but have not driven anywhere to settle the suspension. If you look at the pic, you can see that I am almost on the rebound bump stops....I may remove those coil spring helpers and see if I sit more in a central position on the front suspension. The front sway bar also still has to get clipped in to place.
It's starting to look like a car again!
Also the tailpipe is touching the rear sway bar, so I will have to adjust that rear pipe now that the car is sitting at normal ride height.

Oh, and after filling the treadle vac a few times, I will be working on a remote fill reservoir! I plan on using an ATE single circuit plastic part. It is not 50's vintage, but at least 60's vintage.

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I think the rear sway bar should be under the tail pipe, and not over it. Is that right? I think I just need to adjust the pipe towards the back of the car to get things right

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My memory is that it should go over. Remember the sway bar doesn't move up and down, it just twists.

But I could take a picture of my Cavalier sometime today if no one else has one handy.

Thanks Jerome. I believe you are right. Looks like my new muffler is about 2-4 inches shorter than the old one. I will have to fit in a short section of 2 Inch diameter pipe to get the tailpipe to the Right length.