Packard Forum Index » Modification Discussion

The center pilot is NOT for centering the wheel (assuming STAPMED steel wheels). It is for load sharing under extrme service conditions. Somewhat of a moot point tho. A stamped steel wheel will bend before it breaks off the studs.

Centering????? That's a joke. Most stamped steel wheel have at least 1/8 runnout radialy and sideways and i've seen as much 3/8 on new wheels. Jack up back of car. Run it in gear and watch the wheel.

We need a pic of the brake pad with dimensions or a common size reference like a dollar bill setting next to it and a streight on pic of the caliper parallel to spindel to identify it.

I'm not sure, yet. I was hoping that since Kanter has had this conversion available for a year or two there might be someone out there in e-mail land that has already installed it and could recommend something.

Converting the brake pedal to a pendulum style makes quite a few aftermarket (hot rod) parts available. This would put the master cylinder and booster on the firewall which would be easier to service...but right out there for everyone to see. Keeping the master cylinder and booster in the general area of the original set up would be preferable as it would be less obtrusive to the casual Packard observer, although the installation would be a bit more difficult because of space limitations.

I'll wait for some input from actual installers before I do anything. It will be several months before I'm ready to do the installation.

Also, here is a photo of the brake pads used in this kit. The calipers are not the super-robust 4 piston models...but the installation should be more than adquate.

M.

Attach file:

---

  (76.12 KB)

You can tell the man's a Packard owner by the size of his petty cash. A Ford guy would have used a one, Chevy a five, Buick a ten and so on. Having the proper petty cash on hand is also a good indication that he's been pricing parts and a representative range for each.

Quote:

I, HH56 (Howard) and a few others have installed the MPB booster/MC in the BTV original location. There are a couple of arrangements to get the proper 3:1 pedal leverage. I think Howard's is the most clever and retains the stock pedal location. There's a thread on this. My installation is on my Panther website.

Keith (PackardV8), Eric (nee Turbopacman), Paul (no handle) and some others have hung booster/MCs on the firewall and used the hanging pedal arrangement. If you really care about stock appearance, then this is NOT the way to go. There may be old threads on this kind of arrangement. Paul's setup is on my Panther website.

Craig

Here is a better shot of the caliper itself.

M.

Attach file:

---

  (54.08 KB)

Problem with the 48 is since there was no power, the frame location for the master is it. To keep in that original location would almost entail the Electro-Boost. I don't think anything else is small enough to fit and using one of those would mean a change to 12v. I believe any vacuum booster under the floor may also be tight. Don't think those height dimensions are much different than later cars but maybe. Also don't know if there is room on 48's to adapt the BTV mounting location setup from a later car and do the pedal conversion still keeping the stock clutch. Firewall is certainly an option but sure screams "Mod" if that is a factor to consider. Will be an interesting project whichever way you go.

My 56 setup Craig mentioned is still a work in progress. After contemplation, decided I didn't much like the looks of the first version linkage in engine cmpt. Redid it all keeping the mounting and ratio concept the same except bolt together instead of welds. Using a combination of the shaft & a rod & bellcrank instead of the two levers. Functions the same but all is pretty much hidden unless you look closely. No relocated carpet hole and so far, on the bench seems to work well. Most important, looks stock everywhere except for the booster. Just haven't been in the mood to get under the car or play in the garage much to finish it. Not sure if it would easily adapt to any other model though.

A frame mount mc and 7" dual diaphragm boost unit could be mounted in the general area of the present '48 master cylinder...if it weren't for all the shift linkage and misc stuff for the Electromatic clutch mechanism. I'll take a look at the later Packard Power Brake installation and see if that would work out.

Did I mention that my measurements indicate that with the disc brake conversion kit the wheels are located 3/4" farther outboard than with the stock set up? No big deal and there's plenty of room...but it is different.

M

I suggest you mount your brake booster and master under the floor under your feet. It would point rearward and could be activated by the stock pedal by merely welding a short arm pointing downward on the bottom of the pedal assy. It would be easy work to bolt a bracket to the inside of the frame rail to hold the booster. There is tons of space under there though the pushrod might have to be long. You would then want a remote fill.

There is a picture of something similar in the 55-56 parts book for Torsion Level cars with manual brakes.

Excellent idea. I'll start measuring tomorrow. There should be plenty of room once you get into the middle of the X section.

M

I sent another e-mail to Kanter and have had no reply...probably I should call but somehow I just don't feel like it.

I mounted the '48 wheel on the disc rotor assembly and the 1/2" lug nuts seems to center the wheel just fine. However, I will machine a sleeve to go over the appropriate diameter on the rotor and shrink it in place. The sleeve will ultimately have the same O.D. as the locating diameter in the original wheel hub so the wheel will be located by the hub diameter and not the lug nuts. (A quick run-out check will verify that the diameter I'm sleeving is concentric with the spindle, of course.)

Since all lug studs and bolts are made from 190 kpsi steel the 5 1/2-20 lug studs should be adequate to hold the wheels on the car in place of the original 9/16-18 lug bolts.

M.