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The "pump" you see on your wiper motor is called the coordinator, it coordinates the action of the wiper blades when the washers are activated. It's supposed to be there.

well apparently i don't have one or i took it off already and don't remember, but i don't think i had one actually.

it wasn't like an option or something was it.

i thought the pump was in the bottle itself, i guess this thing just sprays when the wipers are apart or something based on the vaccuum at the time....i guess.


thanks,

Hank

i am just confused because i just took my motor off last night and you could tell nothing was missing from it...as in...it was never taken off or touched in many years. i wonder if this was an option, cause all my sprayers were hooked up it looked like. i did have a cable going to that area, but it was the wiper cable and i unhooked it before i took the motor off.

confused....

As Owen said, The co-ordinator works in conjunction with the bottle and is vacuum operated. When the spray cycle starts, that gets a vacuum to move a piston inside. It starts the wipers independent of regular wiper switch. There is an air bleed screw and when water stops & vacuum disappears, the screw slowly admits air and a spring forces piston back and stops wipers after a few seconds. Whole washer system was an option, but that would be part of it so maybe it was donated to another car long ago.

This weekend was eventful for the Packard. I mostly worked on the tearing down the motor and i got to spend some time with my dad in the process.

i started with all the accessories and then just went at it. i was nervous at first, but once i got in there i couldn't believe how incredibly simply the design was, especially compared to the BMW motors i am used to working on. It was the fear of the unknown i guess.

i had a hard time getting the heads off, but then my dad notice there were two more bolts disguised in the large amount of dirt on the side of the motor on each side. i just didn't even see them. good thing we didn't try too hard to get them off first. after those bolts came out the heads popped right off, easy cheesy. i left the valve there for now.

the tops of the pistons didn't look too bad and the cyclinder walls were pretty smoot still. the domes and valves didn't look bad either.

i took off the center cam cover plate and we proceded to take out the lifters, some WD-40 help lube things up to get those out easier. the cam had some scoring and will probably need to be redone too.

i couldn't get the front timming chain cover off as i don't have a puller to get the harmonic pully off. i will soon though. so we pretty much stopped there and call it a night.

My wife, even while pregnant, found it in her to organize my tools....thanks baby! she even pulled up about 20 weeds that had spreed from out crappy neighbors yard, if that is what you can call it. jerks.....

well....some of the bad news.....the person i bought the car from, his memory served him correctly....the block had been cracked....more like a hole blown through the side of it. see the pics of the repair.

the driver's side only has on freeze plug as a result. but whoever did the repair didn't do too bad as it holds water and the motor ran fine....we will see when i take it to the machine shop to get it clean up, etc... my take is that the motor blew rod at one point and stuck it right out the side of the motor....common problem even in 2001,2002 M Roadsters.....oil pump issue vs. RPM max achieved.....someone wasn't taking care of this poor little Packard at some point.

He said it cost bundles to fix and i believe him now, but i was hoping his memory was thinking of another car and that mine was okay....darn the luck.

sorry for the TONS of pics, but i like to use the Blog as an archival for my pics. and sorry they suck too as i use my camera phone to take them since the phone is easy to use and get to then my 500 dollar DSLR that i would rather not dirty up.

later,

Hank

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flipped the motor over last night and started on the bottom side. drain out the fluid first......which i had to poke a screwdriver into the holes to get out the dried up gunk first so the fluid would run out the drain plug. it was icky as you can see from the pics.

enjoy.

later,

Hank

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Even though your engine is very dirty I think you will have a good result in the end. It is great to see the finished product and the v8 is a beautifull engine as well.

Lots of work still left for you! Keep at it!

Great progress..and as my wife says "it's progress not perfection.."
I am faithfully watching your project 'cuz I just bought a '55 Clipper Super and I have many of the same issues that you have.
Best wishes!
55clipperguy

finally something to update everyone on. i got the shed built in the backyard and was able to move just about all the parts into it and still get my riding mower in there. it is locked up and secure with 3 big dogs gaurding it ;0)

so that left the garge pretty clean now. so i was able to get to all the body bolts, some of which, dispite soaking for months, broke off in the frame. ;0( but, i got the body loose.

i pushed the car out into the driveway after fussing with the beads on the tires/rims. 3 of them will hold air for a couple of days, the third is leaking bad, but holds long enough to push in and out of the garage.

i powerwashed the car off really good and got alot of the dirt/grim off of it. it was suprisingly bright after that, especially the chrome ;0) my driveway is covered in Packard droppings ;0) LOL!

instead of welding or bolting in a support across the door opening, i noticed that when the door hinge was closed it left a perfect opening for wood to fit into, 2x2 worked nicely and i cut a bit long so i could wedge it in tight and it was very strong and much less work. also it is easily reversible in about 2 seconds ;0)

there were 22 body bolts and 2 holes that looked like they would facilitate body bolts, but they had this gooy stuff smashed into them, i guess they were actually drain holes incase you got water in the car, i don't really know for sure.

it took 5 guys to lift the body off, one on each corner and one as a float to support wherever was needed. we could have easily done it with only 4 guys. 2 were in the back wheel wells and two were using the bottom hinges folded out to hold onto in the front. it lifted right up and we took it into the garage and set it on my custom cinderblock/ 4x4 support i made LOL!! i built up some wood in the back to support the trunk part too. it is solid and isn't going anywhere that is for sure. we had to be careful as 3 of us had to step over the 4x4 to get the body on that side. it wasn't easily, but it was easier then it looked like it was going to be.

i also bought furniture dollies to use with the frame, but they just fly out from under the tire when you move it around too much, so i am going to rachet them down to them to keep them from rolling around ontop of them. they were much cheaper then the metal car dollies and since it is only the frame, they handled the weight perfectly. the flat tire stayed on fine, but i don't want to flatten them all, so i will rachet them on to the dollies and that will work i am sure. the dollies say they will hold 900 pouds each......yeah right....they at least hold a packard frame.

so now the body is off the frame and i can move forward more. my once clean garage turned back into a dirty full garage again, but it is fun. ;0)

i could get the solenoids on the torsion leveler to click, but nothing would move. the motor tried but nothing happened. any thoughts on what it could be.....just grim holding it up maybe.....any thoughts on how to clean up the motor and get things working so i can see it working with the frame bare now?

i also noticed that someone decided to cut into the frame to make way for dual exhaust. they did use correct hangers, but they made some nasty holes in the frame trying to duplicat what Packard did on the passenger's side. so it was originally single exhaust and converted to dual via torch and shaky hand ;0( oh well, it is there for me to clean up and utilize for my dual exhaust setup ;0)

thanks and enjoy the pics, sorry they suck, but i don't want to get my good cameras dirty, so i use the camera phone ;0) LOL! better than nothing i guess. i will use the good cameras when i get things clean up. dial up beware, there are ALOT of photos....good way to keep backups just incase ;0)

later,

Hank

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Congratulations on the progress.

On your suspension, could be lots of things but even with cruddy grease, should move. With all weight of body off, going to be a bit hard to remove or disassemble compensator. Suggest reading through the suspension section to get an idea of construction before doing anything.

There is a complete schematic in another thread --just search for torsion level. Suggest getting that. For now, you can bypass all the electronics--just disconnect motor and use a pair of jumper cables. Pos on frame, and touch neg to one terminal to drive one direction, or to other terminal for other direction. The motor will strain in 1 direction since no weight but move OK in other. If motor doesn't work, then if there is enough room to clear car frame, remove motor field coil section and turn armature by hand to move the levers (lot of turns) but whatever you do, don't try to disassemble or loosen anything with tension on it.

BE CAREFUL not to allow a transverse bar or lever to contact the frame anywhere in the center around gearbox or try to go past maximum and revolve to the other side. If neither works this way, then afraid there is gear damage and will have to go to plan 2.