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Exhaust Deflector

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I ordered it from kustomcarparts.com and it was $38 based on the email invoice for it. Their website appears to be no more. So not sure if they didn't make it through COVID. But this was their phone number if you want to give it a try: (855)776-9537

I don't believe they made it, they just dealers. So probably another source/vendor out there for them.

Ok, found one:

classicindustries.com/product/982511.html

This is the same one I have. It slightly shorted than the Packard one, but that is then portion that is under the car, so it doesn't matter. What is visible looks exactly like the Packard one. One word of warning, that tip gets hot, and it stick out part the plane of the bumper. So wearing shorts and not paying attention when putting stuff in the trunk lead to burnt shins. Ask me how I know!

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Back to gas caps. This is the exact one I have on my car, so they are still out there. Atlas C-2 Vented Gas.

ebay.com/itm/NOS-VINTAGE-ATLAS-BRAND-USA ... 6890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0


Look around, you may find one cheaper. It is vented and does NOT squirt gas out when making turns with a full tank because the vent hole is baffled.

BigKev - sorry to get back so late to this. I really appreciate the info and links to the gas cap and exhaust deflector. At some point I will likely replace the gas cap, but my half soda can is working so far.

I think the exhaust deflector is also something I will do down the road. I'm liking the straight pipe I currently have, but I do want to get it to look more original.

-Kevin

What are the recommendations for winterizing a car? My driving days this year are quickly coming to a close. I may have a few more weeks if I'm lucky, but I doubt it.

Do I need to do anything special with gas, tires, battery, etc?

-Kevin

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Opinions on winterization are sort of like asking for opinions on what brand oil filter to use -- everyone has an opinion and may get fairly 'vocal' about them.

Here are some things I try (sometimes don't get the time) to do:
*Fill gas tank with non-ethanol gas and put in a stabilizer
*Change engine oil
*Disconnect battery and put a smart trickle charger on it (maybe even take battery out and put it into a heated area that won't freeze)
*Support the car on Jackstands to get the load off the tires, and air up the tires maybe a little more than normal
*Make sure your antifreeze mix is stout enough for expected cold temps
*Put some type of rodent repellant inside the car, under the hood, and in the trunk
*Check fluid levels and grease so car is ready in the spring
*Wax the chrome

I'm sure others will have additional items

Probably just make sure there is a full tank of gasoline (you may need to bite the bullet and get the new cap so that there is no leakage) to prevent any condensation and keep a trickle charger battery maintainer on the battery.

I use a 12v roof-mounted solar panel at my shop that connects to all my cars through charge controllers (one is custom for 6v) and so far it has worked when before two nearly new group 27 12v batteries were ruined by the bitter cold there.

I always disconnect one battery terminal when not driving the car. So always keep one terminal just loose enough that I can remove it by hand.

I make sure I have a full tank of gas with some Stabil in it. But I do that anyway as I never know how much I will or won't drive it between fillups.

But generally, that's it.

It gets cold here and not uncommon to get below freezing even in the garage when the temps outside are below zero. So I always make sure anti-freeze is topped off and a healthy green color.

But generally cold doesn't bother me, I've driven the car in the middle of winter. I just don't drive it if there is snow/ice/or heavy salt on the roads.

As long as I let it warm up, she runs just grand in cold.

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Thanks for the replies. Fuel stabilizer was definitely something I was curious about. I put it in my garden equipment for the winter, but wasn't sure if most guys did it for their cars as well.

I'm going to wait on changing the oil until next year because I will likely drop the pan and put a new gasket on it since it appears mine is leaking.

I may drive it during the winter if the roads are dry, but they put some pretty nasty stuff on the roads here. I have to spray my truck with Fluid Film every year or everything is covered in surface rust by spring. My bigger issue is the heater isn't working currently. I believe the heater core and switch are, but I found that most of my cables to the dash controls are broken. Is there a good source for these?

-Kevin