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My 6V memory is about as rusty as the floor pans.
I'm preparing to get the motor powered up to see if it's going to crank, start, and run. Radiators repaired, new belt and hoses so I'm on to the process of replacing all the ignition components. The wiring is shot. Rather than rewire the entire car and find out it won't move under it's own power, I'm thinking of disconnecting nonessentials and hooking up just enough to get the motor going. I found a 12 V coil on it. I'm thinking that's OK, if it's the internal resister type, but I need to replace it.
1. Want to know if better to put back a 12V coil(I might have a good old one) or shell out for a 6V? Any particular numbers or recommendations? (Were not a 100 pt restore)
Also, I haven't found any evidence in the wiring diags or on the car of a switch for the trunk light. Something that cute should work.
2. Is there a missing trunk light switch, or does it stay on all the time, or shut off when the trunk closes because that grounds it out? Thanks.
ps:got the carb soaking for rebuild, so things are moving faster than i expected.

Most of us have been replacing original coils with universal 6v coils from Napa or other parts stores. Napa has the Mileage Plus brand for around $17 and a better Echlin for $27. I'd be suspect of any used coils and surely not a 12v coil if you are going to run 6v. The 6v spark is weak enough as it is. The 6v coils are fed directly from the ignition switch and has no resistor with them.

Most important is to get large good quality battery cables - 0 or 00 gauge - for 6v. If using too small a cable, when trying to start the car the battery voltage available to the rest of the car is low. If it drops too much and the coil gets below about 5v when cranking, the spark may be too weak to fire reliably.

The original trunk light had a mercury switch inside & later ones had a steel ball which rolled and made contact. Both types were closed when the trunk lid was raised. Light is powered off the tail light circuit so only gets power to switch when parking or headlights are on.

Schematics showing the light are on the 3rd or 4th page of the 22nd or 23 series (depending on which you have) wiring diagram showing rear body details.

Thanks.
Yeah, I got lucky at NAPA today once I convinced the kids to ditch the computer and look in the old books and on the shelves. 6V coil was in stock. We found some plug wires that'll fit, etc. I've got just about everything new or ordered. I got to flush block, put rad back, leak check, change oil, rebuild the carb, do the wiring & electrics, etc. So I'm still an optimistic week or so away from anything close to live fire. I need to find a shop that can test the starter and generator, that's a lost art, not many growlers left...or take my chances. My not to dependable. still waiting on, mechanic friend says he knows a prewar Packard guy that does that stuff.
I don't have my old spark plug fired timing light, so I'll have to play timing by ear. Maybe rig up the 12V inductance light to another source and try that.
For this phase, I plan on re-use the bat cables that are on it, if I tape up a few spots and replace any bad ends. It's still in the DMV's hands for paperwork. No paper, no drivee.
I'm familiar with the 6V's. I kept my families 8N tractor running for decades. It's just been too long ago to think that simple. I've been no spark plug, diesel, for 15 years now. I just got used to programming my diesel. Thoughtabout dropping one in here.
I don't remember seeing anything that looked like a switch inside the trunk light fixture, it had some rust in there, but I'll take another peek.
This site has saved me alot of bacon on this one. Good job, BigKev and co.!
ps: we're deathly scared of asbestos, but mice seem to like to munch on the old asbestos insulation...

Quote:

The switch is built into the socket. Here is a photo member "bjsgarage" posted a couple of months agohttps://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=122704#forumpost122704 when he was looking for a new mercury switch. I don't know if he found one or made something else work. I suspect the latter.

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This should help you remember the NAPA/Echlin part numbers; I've posted this many times and suggest you print it off. Most of the #s are still active NAPA numbers and those that aren't can be crossed in the NAPA computer.

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Dave,

Thanks for reposting this.

I know you just got new spark plug wires, but if you can ones with actual wires rather than carbon, the car will run better.

Thanks loads for these. Better late than never. I can see why I'd never have seen the Hg part. That looks easy to make out of glass tube and two contacts. Maybe a thermostat would donate.
After I get it running then, I can worry about the right stuff. If it don't run, whole drive train is parts for someone. I'm still waiting on the carb gasket set.
Maybe you come across this one? I'm trying to get the cooling system up.
I'm going back to NAPA right now because they got the wrong part but they just called and had the right one on the shelf. I'm cobbling together a water jacket outlet(blockside) for the top radiator hose. When I hit it with the wire brush to put the hose on, it was holy. It's too far gone to touch with the welder. I found what I think is a close match, but they had no dimwnsions. Hopefully, if not exact, it's close enough to weld onto my good base. Is there a good xref for that one?
Any suggestions on parking light fixtures, aka turn signals. I tried the usual and coming up empty. I hate to by another whole car for two light bases. I think they're riveted to the fender and the reflector part is rubber/plastic and seals the glass. I can make or make out of fiberglass. My stuff is good glass out to chrome.
Sorry to be a pain, I enjoy the hunt though. On the backs of giants that gone before...

Well that outlet was close but not right size. I still think I can cut off the bad and weld this neck on and make it fit.

I don't know of an outlet unless from one of the vendors. Max says "inquire" and there is a core charge so he must refurbish them.

I guess those things never had any kind of galvanizing or protection except a thin coat of paint. They do self destruct very easily. The radiator hose necks on the transmission coolers are another high rustout item so at least you're spared that one.

One of the PI regionshttp://www.packards-today.com/ has repro's in brass for 51-4 and 55-6 but nothing listed for prior engines. Don't know offhand the difference your engine would be to the 51-4 piece except maybe the hose angle. If the Napa item won't work and you can't find a parts car, maybe an option.

On the parking lights, Max has lenses and bezels -- for a price. If the whole housing is missing then it's probably going to be find one off a parts car. There should be any number of those cars out there so am sure that would be the cheapest way. Max lists a complete assy but it's "inquire".