Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

I am looking for an old/used/rusty L 6 special filter that I can restore and use as a dummy filter. I am aware of the aftermarket repro filter kits available but am using a different filter set up on my car. If anyone has an old filter laying around that may be for sale, please let me know. Thank you,

The L-8 is a lot easier to find, being used for all years except the one single year for the L-6, and will adapt perfectly to an L-6 mounting if you can find a set of the adapters that Turnquist sold some years ago for that specific purpose. If not the adapters would be easy to make, perhaps I can post a photo of them if you decide to go that route. I'm not willing to part with my empty L-6 canister quite yet.

Thank you for the information. I will also look for an L 8 that I can adapt. I will keep you posted. The pictures for the adapter would then be very helpful.

I'm not really looking for details on what kind of alternative filter you provided, but just to be on the safe side, let me just note that many of these engines, especially 1934 Eights and Super Eights, have been ruined by folks fitting a low-volume bypass filter in series with the full-flow circuit, thus starving the engine for oil. Hopefully you were aware of this and your modification maintains the full-flow feed to the engine.

Yes, I am aware of this issue regarding the maintaining of proper oil pressure. However, in the research I have done, I have come across conflicting opinions regarding oil filter setup etc... There are some Packard guys who claim that any modern filter (including the repro kits provided by the guy in Mich.) are incorrect for a full flow system and will eventually cause damage. I realize that many people have installed the after market modern spin on conversions and have had no issue, however, I wonder if these same individuals actually drive their cars a significant amount. I do have a good friend (with a PhD in mechanical engineering) who says we should measure oil pressure pre and post filter to determine if there is significant drop in pressure. I was wanting to re route my oil line thru a modern filter and bypass the oil cooler. Because the oil cooler may have a potential to leak, causing water to mix with oil, I have decided to bypass all together. Also, my engineer friend says that all the twists and turns the oil passageway takes thru the cooler causes some significant drop in pressure.

Adding to my previous post.
Part two.
Therefore, by eliminating the oil cooler set up, we will automatically gain pressure by default. Then run a direct line from the oil pressure regulator thru a filter and back. This portion I hope to hide as best as possible. I also plan to keep all the original lines, cooler, etc in place as to maintain original look. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I kinda wanted to eliminate the filter altogether such that there would be no drop in pressure at all, but my engineer said I was nuts! He says you have to filter the oil, especially on new engine. ok doc, but Packard used a crude oil filter that probably didn't work all that well except for no or little drop in oil pressure. I would love to hear from someone who has driven a 33 34 Packard 20 thousand miles or more with a modern conversion. Somehow I doubt that there are many people who have driven that much with their restored car. I personally, do plan to drive cross country when my car is completed and want to make the right decision regarding oil filter.

I wonder but perhaps you're overthinking this a bit?

Regarding the oil cooler housing itself, you still have to maintain the water flow THRU the housing if you want the coolant to return back to the water distribution jacket and reach the rear cylinders. This is because there is a baffle within the jacket sideplate that diverts the water into the cooler and prevents it from reaching the rear cylinders unless it does so. Yes, you could block off the water low into the cooler with a plate between the flanges, but then you'd have to remove and remake a new internal baffle for the water jacket plate.

Regarding the need for the oil cooler, this was a feature from the days before multi-vis oil and it really isn't required. Nor was it present on the pre-1934 Packard engines which were long-lived without it. So sure, you can do without it.

Regarding the cooler element itself, yes - when they leak you primarily get oil into the water because the oil pressure is higher. But it's very simple to eliminate the old cooler core and just machine a simple bypass tube for the oil path across the housing from inlet to the outlet; this also eliminates the circuitous flow of oil thru the cooler core. Many have done this, including myself, it's pretty much a standard part of doing a 34 8-cylinder engine and properly done completely eliminates the possibility of oil/water intermixing.

Regarding the filter elements sold by Burr Ripley and R&A, they are elements designed for full-flow filtration systems so that shouldn't be an issue. I've driven my 34 Eight about 50,000 miles, many of them on lengthy tours, with the Ripley L-6 kit for most of them and know of MANY others who have done similarly. I'd be glad to help you with your questions, PM me if you wish to chat by phone.

I had about 90,000 miles on my 34 1100 with poured bearings and with the Ripley full-flow kit and with the oil cooler all intact and properly plumbed before I decided on a rebuild. And except for the cooler location and core design it remained thru 1939, both on 8s and 12s. The engineers that designed it were highly competent and the design (except for old-age failure of the cooler core itself) was well-tested and served well. My oil pressures with straight SAE 30W detergent oil are typically 30 psi at hot idle, and I've set the relief valve to open at 55 psi and generally maintain 50 psi or better at road speeds, this is far more than adequate oil pressure.

PS - here's a photo of the cooler replacement tube that Bill Robbins recently made for his 1101. Simple as can be, just make sure the ID of the oil passage is no smaller than the ID of the supply line. And if you wanted some oil cooling effect, easy enough to lathe-turn some "fins" onto the cylinder.

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The only way the cooler can cause a drop in oil pressure is if the flow rate through it is less than pump capacity.

An engine requires about six gallons per minute of flow, and 10 psi per 1000 rpm. The Packard specification of 45-50 at 35 mph is already above what is required.

The pressure shown on the gauge is down stream pressure and is lower than mainline pressure.

Now there is a limit to safe oil pressure on those Packards. Too much oil pressure saps horsepower and can, and has in some cases, blow a hole in the crankcase oil passages. It also places an undue burden on the timing gears, oil pump and cam shaft gears.

Packard was doing a lot of research into flow regulation thanks to the proving grounds.

Now as to how many miles are being driven by rebuilt motors, when those cars were new they were racking up some impressive mileages. In 1930 they were rolling up 6,000 miles in six months on some of those cars.

I have always felt the reason today's rebuilts don't go the 100,000 miles that the original motors did is because the crankshafts wear out. They bend, they fatigue, and they whip. Not to mention old eroded cast iron blocks, carburetors, and manifolds.

The old timers drove the cars conservatively. Today's crowd wants to run them on the expressway where they blow up. Maybe they need a new car.