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fuel line fitting
#1
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Mark Graber
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Here's a shot of a combination fuel line connection and mount on the front right of the frame. I'd like to replace the fuel line while things are accessible.
Seems like I have some choices - use this fitting with a short section of original tube and connect to that. Or, fabricate something else. Or, it just hit me, perhaps I could tap one end of a tube fitting where the current tube exits the fitting (?) Is there any way to fit a new line into this connection/mount?
Thanks,
Mark

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Posted on: 2014/4/1 21:00
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Re: fuel line fitting
#2
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Owen_Dyneto
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Solder the new line into the fitting, silver solder would be best.

Posted on: 2014/4/1 21:09
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Re: fuel line fitting
#3
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Mark Graber
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Of course!
Thanks.

Posted on: 2014/4/1 21:22
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Re: fuel line fitting
#4
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Fish'n Jim
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Is that the original stock fitting and location or something else? I don't like having fuel lines on the block for vibration/movement reasons. One crack and your toast. Looks like a (std) flare fitting which is not usual for (SAE) auto fuel lines. ???
Any "fuel grade" compression fitting would do the job easiest but if it's original and you really want to keep that one, have to sweat off the old line and sweat on the new. The mounting tab may come loose by the looks of it. Maybe easier to take off the vehicle unless you're good with the torch and solder in any position. Something fishy about it to me. I'd research that puppy or seek a better solution.

Posted on: 2014/4/1 21:54
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Re: fuel line fitting
#5
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HH56
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That is the stock & correct fitting for postwar up thru 23nd series -- maybe prewar too. Bolted to the frame cross member just ahead of and slightly below the pump. The short rubber hose is between the fitting and pump. There was apparently more than one version for different models.

They transitioned to an inverted flare end on the tube with a loose flare nut on the line with the 24th series and then used that till the end. I wouldn't be surprised since that is a simpler termination, that if a line was damaged and needed replacing dealers could have adopted the later method and hose on some of the earlier cars

The brass block has a projection on the rear which inserts in a hole in the steel mounting strap and is then peened over. Unless it is forcibly broken apart, it is permanently attached. I agree about removing to solder but did mine with silver solder and a propane torch. Used the cupro-nickel tubing which bent and formed nicely.

Posted on: 2014/4/1 22:02
Howard
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