Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Good Evening all...Today, we put a new (old stock) correct directional switch into 'Miss Prudence' our 1949 Deluxe. We re-used the origonal wiring rather than that which a prior owner installed when they did not care to make a repair in the steering column. They ran extra wiring from a switch under the end of the dash board to all of the front and rear lights. We managed to make everything work with the exception of the right rear stop light. Is there some magic with this light, or is there anything sort of out of the ordinary in the way it is connected from the left rear light, that we should check? I admit to scratching my head! Thanks, Ernie

If your 49 has 6 wires to signal switch, here is an extracted schematic of the turn signal circuit and how the brake lights tie in. Each bulb is fed directly from the switch so unless there is a connector loose or making poor contact -- round one at column has been known to have issues -- it should be a direct run for both functions. If one bulb is not working or only one function is not working it could be the new switch has an issue -- either oxidized terminals from sitting on the shelf 70 years or possibly the phenolic has warped dropping a terminal down below the surface. If a terminal is dirty or drops more than a tiny amount the "bumps" on the small triangular connector piece cannot make good contact.

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When I encounter almost ANY automotive electrical problem, especially on cars as old as these, I start by assuming its a bad ground, and check those grounded connections carefully.

Good afternoon all...UPDATE...'Miss Prudence now has her turn signals and horn restored to their proper 'Packard' locations. The problem was that the wire that carries the signal for stop lights was buggered someplace between the break light switch and the rear tail lights. We finally jacked her up, and ran a new wire under the car from the switch to the rear tail lights. The problem disappeared!
The horn was mounted on a button under the edge of the dash and it is back in the steering column as it should be.

We made one other adjustment as the old girl would run cool down the road 140/150 but she would heat up 190/200 at long lights. We moved the vacuum advance pipe from the bottom of the carburetor to the intake manifold. I drove home, 35 miles first in stop and go traffic, 180 tops in 85 degree weather and then on the highway for the last 15 miles or so 140/150..NICE! Ernie

Which turnsignal switch do you have -- the 22nd series 3 wire switch with separate turn signal bulbs or the 23rd 49 and later cars with the 6 wire switch. I take it from your resolution of new brake light wire it must be the 3 wire?

Ernie, this is some good and interesting news. It may be one of the ways to help control engine temperature in our aging Packard engines. Long idle periods are killers. All of this fix for little or no extra cost.

Here is how I have done the job:

Relocate the distributor vacuum line from the carburetor base to the intake manifold. Plug the hole in the carb's base. It should be easy enough to make the original line work or fabricate a new one. Steel lines with fittings and flares are readily available at parts stores in the needed diameter and length. The fittings necessary to relocate the line on the manifold are also easy to source.

Next with the vacuum line disconnected from the distributor and the line plugged, and with the engine idling at the correct speed (450-500 rpm), set the ignition timing to the desired place.

Reconnect the vacuum line, restart the engine, and readjust the engine idle down to the correct idling speed. The engine will run faster with the full manifold vacuum pulling on the dist. advance.

This should complete the job. Driveability should be the same or better.

Great to hear it worked for you and may help others too.

(o{}o)

Good Morning HH56. 'Miss Prudence' has a six wire switch. We simply become convinced that we had a bad wire that we could not find, so we went around it. Pretty old school! Ernie

I am wondering if your car has an interim system. I can see the repair working if you have the older separate bulb for signals and a shared dual filamant tail light bulb for brakes as the 22nd series used with the 3 wire switch but not when using a single bulb and 6 wire switch as 23rd series started using.

With the single bulb system and no turn signals selected both brake lights should light. When you select a turn signal, the switch should disconnect that side from the steady brake light so it can flash and brake light should be on steady with the other bulb. Bypassing the switch with a solid wire from brake switch to both brake bulbs I just don't see how a turn signal is flashing if you have brakes applied and are using the same bulb for the turnsignal.

Good afternoon once again...'Miss Prudence' has fresh looking bulb mounts that were installed by a prior owner. There are two bulbs on each side. So it seems that her system is partially 22nd series and partially 23 series! Sometimes it seems that the more we learn, the more we need to sit and scratch our heads. Ernie