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22 Series - Front Shock R & R Advice
#1
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Michal
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Attach file:



jpg  (45.47 KB)
2646_4d9bcef44b77d.jpg 478X640 px

Posted on: 2011/4/5 21:26
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Re: 22 Series - Front Shock R & R Advice
#2
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Owen_Dyneto
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You might check the shop manual to see what they recommend, and if you don't know better, that would be the procedure to follow. But when I've seen it done, the car is supported at the frame with a jackstand and with a hydraulic jack under the lower A-frame. Remove the backing plate (tie it up after removal so it doesn't hand by the hose), remove the upper outer or lower inner control arm pin, and lower the jack (VERY CAREFULLY) to relieve the spring.

PS - same procedure as if you were removing and replacing a spring. Pretty straight-forward. But do be careful!

PPS - yes, thanks DBeB, also remove the sway bar link.

Posted on: 2011/4/5 22:03
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Re: 22 Series - Front Shock R & R Advice
#3
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PackardV8
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I'm not real familiar with the 48 Packards but from the picture u posted there appears to be a hole in the lower control arm concentric with the spring. Why not send a ratchet with extension and socket up thru the centre of the spring to hold the nuts????

Posted on: 2011/4/5 22:26
VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... ewtopic.php?topic_id=7245
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Re: 22 Series - Front Shock R & R Advice
#4
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Michal
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Owen,

Your description is just what the book advises. Removing the backing plate would mean pulling the drum but there may be a way to avoid that. Heck, a cotter pin, axle nut, and bearings v. 5 lug bolts: 6 of one, 1/2 Dz of the other, eh? Course I already went with the 5 lug bolts.

PackardV8,

I got all excited when I spotted the very access you did but then thought about trying to align those nuts on reassembly. The 2 inside the springs are quite manageable but the 2 outers would require a pretty sharp bend on a socket, universal, extension combo. Pull the spring and I get easy access to all 4.

I'm starting to think about grabbing one of the neighborhood tomboys with hands 1/4 the size of mine...

Posted on: 2011/4/5 23:31
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Re: 22 Series - Front Shock R & R Advice
#5
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BDeB
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It looks like you already have a jack under the lower A-Frame. If you remove the lower support arm pin and sway bar link the spring can be removed by lowering the A-Frame. The support arm, spindle and brake assembly should be held up in some way to prevent too much stress on the brake hose. A floor jack at right angles to the frame that can roll as the A-Frame arm is lowered will work best. You will need to have the car jacked up fairly high to do this.
It is indeed very difficult to remove the nuts on the shock absorber bolts with the spring in place.

Posted on: 2011/4/6 0:38
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Re: 22 Series - Front Shock R & R Advice
#6
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JD in KC
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For those who haven't seen the lever action shock attachment to the frame, this picture may help explain why the spring has to come out. Two nuts inside the spring, and the spring blocks any decent access to the two nuts outside the spring.

Attach file:



jpg  (20.00 KB)
188_4d9c3c996de2f.jpg 432X324 px

Posted on: 2011/4/6 5:12
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Re: 22 Series - Front Shock R & R Advice
#7
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PackardV8
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Why not just disconnect the brake line at the frame connexion???? Plug both ends real fast. If the backing plate is removed is the brake line long enuf to allow the backing plate to clear the spindle for removal?????

Worse case would be a very tiny amount of air to bleed at just that one wheel connexion. Just be sure to plug the hose and the line when they are disconnected.


EDIT: Go to any auto parts store and buy some rubber vacuum port caps. They kind of a standard garage staple to have in stock. Also buy very short pieces of brake line with the ends already finished for assembly. Cut the store bought brake line about 2 inches from one end and crimp the tube down real tight. Use that to plug the hose.

USe rubber vacuum port cap to plug the end of the line on at the frame connexion OR getting a fitting to plug it.

Quite frankly i doubt that u will have to bleed any air from it upon reassembly. Just bleed by popping the connexion at the frame once or twice.

Posted on: 2011/4/6 7:31
VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... ewtopic.php?topic_id=7245
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Re: 22 Series - Front Shock R & R Advice
#8
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PackardV8
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BTW. If the backing plate IS removed be sure to tie it up to the frame or the fender or something. DO NOT allow it to hang by the hose!!!!!! DO not allow any significant streess on the hose!!!! Stress on the hose of more than about 1 or 2 pounds can weaken the crimped ends.

Posted on: 2011/4/6 7:54
VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... ewtopic.php?topic_id=7245
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Re: 22 Series - Front Shock R & R Advice
#9
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Charles
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They have brake hose clamps too. Pretty cheap. I think I bought mine at Ace Hardware for $1. Quick and easy.

Posted on: 2011/4/6 8:22
[url=h
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Re: 22 Series - Front Shock R & R Advice
#10
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PackardV8
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brake hose clamps??? Does that mash the hose together??? Probably very bad for the hose. Not sure what it is.

Posted on: 2011/4/6 8:35
VAPOR LOCK demystified: See paragraph SEVEN of PMCC documentaion as listed in post #11 of the following thread:f
http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... ewtopic.php?topic_id=7245
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