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While working on replacing the speedometer cable on my 47 Clipper, I discovered that the overdrive lock-out cable is frozen. When I pull the knob under the dash the inner cable moves along with the outer "shell" of the cable. So far, it does not look like the inner cable is broken. Assuming that I can unfreeze the cable, can I repair the outer "shell" so that it remains fixed while the inner cable slips freely? Also, how do you remove the cable through the firewall (I have a similar question about the speedometer cable in another posting.)

Eric

No hints on removal other than dash end is probably too big to fit thru hole in firewall so most likely will need to have the trans end pulled thru.

As to the slipping cable, I think this problem is what you will find. Have seen it more than once. The pot metal housing has a very thin section which is crimped around the cable. Once cable starts binding, the force causes problems. If like this one, it has split and will never hold tightly again. IMHO, JB Weld or the like would not hold long and could also get onto the sliding portion or possibly prevent future repair.

That said, on the repair here am thinking of an ordinary miniature hose clamp or a split collar. McMaster-Carr has both if you can't find anything small locally. Of the two, I will probably go for the split collar on this one because it is heavier material and think it would look better. Size is the question. This crimped area measures out to just slightly under 5/16 so will try that with a shim if necessary. 1/4 is next available size and I think too small.

I was able to free this cable by liberal use of penetrating fluid -- Liquid Wrench in this case. If you are unable to free the center wire, then repair will be by replacing the bowden cable. That may get interesting on both ends. At the dash end, entire cable appears to come out from the front once crimped area is free. The center section appears to be staked in the shaft via a flattened section thru the holes. That may be hard to do on a new cable. Trans end, I have no idea.

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I used a split collar clamp from a hardware store to repair my OD cable housing to the pull-out housing (47 Clipper Custom). It was longer than the pictured one. I secured the collar with two small hose clamps; one on the housing and one on the cable. This fix has worked for over 5-years.

(o[]o)

I had purchased a pair of upper grille bars that someone had left in the 5/16 studs while being rechromed. Needless to say the studs were frozen in the casting. In trying to turn the studs out I could see the casting bending a little. I gave up and mixed a concoction that I read about on this forum. 1/2 Acetone and 1/2 AT fluid. I soaked the threads several times and let the solution run down to the casting where the studs were screwed in. After several application I was able to turn the studs and removed them from the casting. It worked for me and I'm a PB Blaster fan. Give it a try and let it soak in for a few days.

A related question please, gents:

The entire lockout cable (and all wiring) had been removed from my 47 Clipper 6 cylinder 4 door.

I bought a new lockout cable from Packard Dave in Seattle, but, my question is - where does it run through the firewall ?

Does it come through the same hole as the speedo cable, then run down the side of the firewall next to the accelerator linkage, and run back to the OD arm ?

Thanks for the input !

Best regards,

Dave Blandford
Cell 513-205-3188

I believe it routes with the speedometer cable the same as this 22nd series photo. It goes down the passenger side to the cable clamp bracket and the lockout lever which is on the R9s passenger side.

If your car was converted to the R11, then it does gently curve where it exits firewall and reroutes to the left side of engine where it clamps in an Electromatic mounting hole and then on to the cable clamp bracket.

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Eric: Hope you solved your problem, if not..........
I've replaced the entire cable in 3 of my cars with a rebuilt ones from David Moe in Seattle. Forget about trying to use pentrating oil and fighting to unfreeze, not going to help if the cable is broken like your's is anyway.

Easy to install, just start snaking the cable under the dash following the existing cable all the way through firewall to overdrive, then remove the old cable. Remember to specify which OD unit you have when ordering (not sure if 47's used 2 different ones)

The new cables work amazingly! Two fingers will now easily pull the transmission out of overdrive. David says to NEVER oil the new cable, it will never need it.

Sorry my reply is slow coming. I just got back on line. I have repaired two different OD cables by soldering the cable to the housing. I first used squeezed the housing back into shape, then soldered it. One of the cable has been in use for over 10 years.Granted it isn't activated that often it is left in overdrive virtually all of the time.