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My 54 Clipper was changed from 6 volt to 12 volt. I recently changed the coil and don't have any spark. Looking at the wiring diagram I notice the ignition wire goes to the negative side of the coil , should that wire now go to the positive side of the coil? I haven't been to the garage today to try the swap.

Polarity isn't dependent on voltage. The coil will work either way although for efficiency and best spark, the wire from coil to distributor should be on the terminal you have grounded -- if your new battery setup is now neg ground, then (-) side of coil should connect to dist.

Did you install a ballast resistor in the wire from ign sw to feed side of coil or use a new coil for 12v with internal resistor.

WILLIS,

When your car was changed to 12-volts was a ballast resistor placed in the circuit between the ignition switch and the coil? 12-volts without a resistor will overheat a coil and lead to premature death to it and distributor parts. Some coils come with an internal resistor in which case an external one is not needed. Make sure which type of coil you have and whether an external resistor is required.

When you car was changed to 12-volts was the ground also changed to negative from positive? 6-volt Packards were positive ground. If a car has a negative grounded electrical system, the negative terminal of the coil (primary lead) is connected to the distributor, and for positive ground, the opposite.

I hope this helps, but you may have other problems. Keep working at it and asking for help, you'll get it fixed, sooner or later.

(o[]o)

I did install a ballast resistor, the car fired and ran before I did the tune up. I installed a non-resistor coil, but I did run the wires to the coil the same way they were when the car was positive ground. I will switch them at the coil tonight and try it. I have voltage at all locations, but no fire(spark) when I crank it.

Thanks

By doing the tune up, assume you mean also changed points and condenser?

If you were in the distributor, and yours is the type with a flexible fabric covered wire between points and the outside terminal, check carefully for any shorts in that wire. Many have been burned by disturbing the wire and having a chuck of the rotten fabric insulation fall off letting the wire ground. Also verify nothing in any new component was accidentally grounded.

WHY did u change the coil????? Put the OLD coil back on and try it. Maybe new coil is defective. Does old coil have a NAME on it???? Does new coil have a NAME on it???

Under regular tuneup procedure If coil is not suspect of problems then do NOT change it.

Very hot today, but I went to the garage(mine is detached from the house) and checked a couple of things. I am pretty sure I found the problem. With extra light and my bifocals off, I could see the screw that fastens the external wire to the condenser and points spring was touching the arm of the points. When it gets cooler I will attempt to change out that screw. It was probably shorting the system. What do you think?

Since the car sat from 1989 to the present, I was replacing most items under the hood. I have saved all the items so if the screw isn't the problem I will pull the coil.

Two of us went through all items today on the Clipper ignition. We found the points, although being new and looking good,were not functioning. We sanded the new points and the car is now running. I would have never thought there would be any type of coating on the new points???? The engine sounds great!

Many metals can oxidize over time and form a coating which may be resistive. Chances are your points weren't "factory fresh".

Please don't use sandpaper on points, it may very significantly shorten their life. For a couple of dollars buy a point file which is also useful for contact points on things like OD relays, horn relays, voltage regulators,and the like. Better yet, buy two, one for the glovebox and one for the workbench.