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It has been approximately 4 years since my 1924 6 cyl Touring car (model 120?) has run. At that time it was running fine. No stabilization measures were undertaken prior to this period of storage. I have the opportunity in this next coming month to get my hands dirty trying to prepare the engine to run.

I would appreciate any help from the forum with creating a check list of items to address so I don't cause any damage to this fine car and giving me a good chance for successful starting of the motor. I have had one individual suggest even pulling spark plugs to spray inside the cylinders with WD-40 before trying to turn the crankshaft. Any thoughts?

My plans are to relocate the car to my backyard this fall so more attention is possible and also to enjoy the car regularly.

Thanks for any help.

Seth Gartner
Charlotte, NC

Here is a great link with a full check list of things to do and things to check to get you Packard running. I was provided this link by Owen here on the forum when I asked about getting my long sitting clipper running. Hope you find it as helpful as I did!

packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=859

Hello, Seth. I lived in Charlotte aeons ago (Myers Park). Lovely place. The attachment above Andy and Owen shared is good, but i'd add checking the torque on the manifold nuts as well as cylinder head. In fact, both were considered part of a complete tune up in the '20s, '30s, '40s, early '50s.

WD-40 is not a lubricant. It's fine stuff, and can often be used to "lead" a trail of oil into a fine cavity. It was developed long ago to preserve machinery parts, including IBM typewriter components in storage. Kerosene is also good. In fact, many farmers routinely wipe their equipment with kerosene in the fall before putting it away. The kerosene leaves a protective film. These gents don't clown around. Tractors, combines are expensive.

But before starting your engine for the first time in four years, after you to all the above in the adviso Andy & Owen shared, remove the spark plugs. Squirt some thin motor oil into each plug hole. Try to angle the squirt can so you get as much oil as possible into each cylinder, not just puddling atop the valves, a problem with the L-head layout.
Don't get carried away, but make sure you get enough oil in there to do some good, protect the cylinder walls.

Now, with the plugs out to reduce strain on the starter,
crank the engine a bit to distribute the oil. You may want to squeeze the corner of a clean rag into each plug hole to keep oil from coming out, making a mess.

Reinsert the spark plugs, making sure your plugs have copper, not cheap aluminum gaskets. Tighten them just enough, according to your shop manual. Make certain your radiator's full, all the other things on the aforementioned checklist.

Next, assuming no electric fuel pump, prime the carburetor with a little gasoline, maybe a teaspoon or so.

Now start the engine. You'll make some smoke, so do this when your neighbors aren't watching.

Assuming your car was in good repair before its long slumber, you should be fine. You may emit smoke from the tailpipe for a few blocks, if you don't run in place a few minutes.

Meanwhile, any collector or vintage race car, boat or ag engine, should have a preoiler. I recommend www.masterlube.net Tell Kerry McCracken a black '47 Super Clipper in Walnut Creek, CA sent you. According to McDonnell-Douglas, Continental aircraft, the SAE, 80-90% of all engine wear occurs during the first moments of start up.
Beware miracle elixirs that "cling" to cylinder walls and bearing surfaces. I never, ever start my engine until there's full oil pressure coursing through all its galleys.

Don't let the downhome contingent tell you your starter provides "enough" oil pressure. Not unless you strain the hell out of it by cranking it for a couple minutes. Treating your starter motor like this every time you want to start a seldom driven collector/race car, boat, ag equipment decreases starter motor life.

If you add a preoiler, and Kerry has a quick disconnect coupling so one MasterLube device can preoil several cars, you'll never annoy your neighbors again, nor give our swell pastime a bad rep, while eliminating most engine wear.

Throw open the priming cups, if they aren't stuck, pour some 5w-20 oil in them, and crank the motor until the oil pressure starts to show. Close up and start.

Of course you know the vacuum tank should be filled as well.

Thanks to those with ideas. I now have some learning to do regarding some of those items.

How does one go about filling the vacuum tank before starting?

Is 5w-20 an oil recommended for this start up/lubrication only? What type of oil would anyone recommend as the general lubricating oil?

Thanks again.

Seth Gartner