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Clipper now running, points were stuck. Flow through G-2 filter is very low and doesn't keep up with the carb use. Next step is to blow through the line from the before the fuel pump to the gas tank. Then pull the bottom of the fuel pump off and clean the screen.

As for cleaning the fuel pump, can I take off the bottom without removing the pump?

Depends on pump so no good answer. This one you can but be aware of the two gaskets -- one around the screw and the other around the bowl. Being old and reused, they might leak when reassembled. There is another style you can also remove in place. That one has thin plates stacked in such a way that gaps between the plates form the screen. Whether that one can be cleaned in place even with bowl off is a question. Kev shows a third style in the "How to rebuild a pump" paper he wrote. That is in the literature how-to section. That one I'm not sure about because he calls the screw a drain plug & it is off to the side of the bowl.

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Looks as though the best way is to remove the pump and do it correctly one time!

I have a leak around the seat of the bung that holds the drain plug ,I tried running out the gas and when dry sanding down the area auntill clean and putting some " gas proof" epoxy all around the area this workd great for about 4 months then it turned rubbery and fell off ,I guess it was the alcohol in the fuel eating the epoxy i was trying to avoid pulling the tank and haveing the trouble of finding someone who will weld or solder on a tank

I have a leak around the seat of the bung that holds the drain plug ,I tried running out the gas and when dry sanding down the area auntill clean and putting some " gas proof" epoxy all around the area this workd great for about 4 months then it turned rubbery and fell off ,I guess it was the alcohol in the fuel eating the epoxy i was trying to avoid pulling the tank and haveing the trouble of finding someone who will weld or solder on a tank

A radiator repair shop usually does gas tanks and can weld the drain plug. It will still cost about $75.00.

Checking out the fuel flow today, at the pump no problem with flow and engine idle. Just before the tank with tubing in a gas can, no problem with flow and engine idle.
Blew air into the gas tank and hooked up the gas line. Ran fine for about 3 minutes and started starving for fuel. I guess the new tank has some residue in it. I really am not anxious to pull the tank again, is it possible to drain and then vacuum the tank to get the residue out?????

I really am not anxious to pull the tank again, is it possible to drain and then vacuum the tank to get the residue out?????


IMO, not really. If you look at post 11 showing inside of tank, the fill opening is positioned in such a way there would be no way to ensure the debris could be in a position to be found and caught with any vacuum. The only opening where you can possibly see the debris would be the sender opening on top. You would still have to tilt and tip the tank to get it somewhere to be fished out.

With the discussion on sealers in the whistle thread, did the repair shop use any which might partially be blocking the inlet tube. If they did use some and laid the tank flat while it dried, it could have run down into the triangular depression where the tube opening is located. The tube is only about a quarter inch or less above the bottom of the depression.

You also mentioned early on the outlet tube possibly moving. While I doubt it moved, you might be able to see the condition from the top opening. Unless the tank is more than half full, have you verified the tube is not an issue with it possibly having a pinhole and allowing pump to suck some air.

Would it be possible that the whistle hole is plugged on the tank and stalling the pump due to lack of air in the tank after a few minutes?