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« 1 ... 13 14 15 (16) 17 18 »

Re: Tim's '55 Patrician
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Randy Berger
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I have used DOT5 since I first rebuilt the brake system in the early 90's. The Caribbean had DOT3 in it when I bought it and I will probably not change that.
I've had success with both.

Posted on: 2012/12/17 14:05
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Re: Tim's '55 Patrician
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Tim Wile
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Thanks, everyone, for their two cents worth. I was leaning on using DOT5 before this but the discussion from the group sealed the deal.

Posted on: 2012/12/17 15:23
PA Patrician (Tim Wile)

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Re: Tim's '55 Patrician
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Tim Wile
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I'm baaack! After a long sabbatical, and quite a busy few months with my Sea Scout Ship, I'm back at work on the Patrician. In order to do so, I had to do some quick cleaning out of the garage and inventory my tools. It has been a while.

Needless to say, I'm in the process of vacuum bleeding the Patrician's brake system. The re-built master cylinder has been installed and hopefully, I've got enough brake fluid to finish the job. I just stopped off at Advance Auto earlier today to pick up another bottle of brake fluid.

I do have a question for those of you who have probably done this before. With a totally new system, new lines, new wheel cylinders, new hoses, re-build master cylinder, how long does it take to see some fluid come out of the wheel cylinder? I've been following the directions on the vacuum bleeder that I purchased from Sears and I can see the vacuum pressure dropping when I stop pumping the vacuum portion of the tool, but after some 15 minutes, I've yet to see any fluid come out of the wheel cylinder into the collection tube. Am I doing something wrong or simply have no patience? (Yes, I did loosen the bleeder valve on this particular wheel cylinder before attaching the vacuum hose).

I know that it will take some time to pull the brake fluid from the master through the lines and fill the wheel cylinder, but after 15 minutes of pumping the vacuum tool, I thought I should have seen something.

BTW, the instructions that came with the tool said to start with the wheel closest to the master cylinder and then work your way towards the wheel farthest away. I've seen others who said start with the wheel farthest away and work your way backwards.

Any advice, criticisms, or, possibly, words of encouragement would be appreciated.


Posted on: 2013/8/4 13:17
PA Patrician (Tim Wile)

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Re: Tim's '55 Patrician
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HH56
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I personally have not had that much luck with the vacuum bleeder. To be fair, it was a cheapo HF unit so maybe not in the same league as yours. But, like you I pumped for what I considered to be an inappropriate amount of time for little to nothing showing for it. While I can't prove it, my feeling was on my car the thing was taking advantage of the least resistance and pulling air thru the piston cups right next to the bleed screw instead of pulling fluid the long distance thru the lines. The way the cups are formed, it is no trick at all for air to slip by the lip in the reverse direction.

I finally gave up messing with the vacuum and bought the Speedibleed setup that Dave (clipper47) in Canada mentioned.speedibleed.com/ It does the job quite nicely.

Posted on: 2013/8/4 13:39
Howard
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Re: Tim's '55 Patrician
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Tim Wile
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Howard, thanks for the info. BTW, I've looked on the Speedbleeder site and did not notice any adapters for Packards with BTV systems. Which one did you get for yours?

Posted on: 2013/8/4 13:50
PA Patrician (Tim Wile)

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Re: Tim's '55 Patrician
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HH56
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I bought the basic DIY K100B universal cheapo kit. It comes with the general purpose adapter. To be fair, my 56 is not exactly stock and I knew it wouldn't be used as they sold it. I have a remote reservoir for my dual master mounted near the battery and bought a special pressure bleed lid when I ordered the reservoir. Transferred their fitting to that lid. On the 47 it will be used as sold but that is a manual system.

Trying the universal adapter with the BTV out of the car, with some judicious positioning it appears it will work --- IF there is enough clearance between the BTV and steering column. It looks to need about 2" to clear the strap attachment screw and about 1" for the adapter proper. I honestly can't comment on the clearance since I never tried it in the car.

If the quick connect fitting hits the column, it might need to turn to the side. A 90 degree elbow would probably solve that issue. Otherwise the option for any pressure bleeder would be find a specific BTV threaded adapter or maybe another BTV threaded cap. With one of those you could plug the vent opening and drill and tap for 1/8 pipe. Screw in the quick connect fitting and you have a permanent something for the next time or the other car..

I seem to recall someone else having the kit so perhaps more info will be along. One downside to pressure bleeding the BTV is that relief port. I wouldn't think keeping the pressure to the recommended range or lower would cause any issues though.

Attach file:



jpg  (88.81 KB)
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Posted on: 2013/8/4 15:28
Howard
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Re: Tim's '55 Patrician
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R H
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i have that hf hand vacuum ,,it worked on my datsun truck, \\

since putting on rebuilt btv i do need to see if its works on packard.

if i can figure out the thread on btv cap think i will put a remote tank some where. that area is a pitb,,,,,,,,,,

Posted on: 2013/8/4 16:14
Riki
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Re: Tim's '55 Patrician
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Tim Wile
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Riki, I'll look forward to hearing how you make out. I hope that you have better luck than have I.

Posted on: 2013/8/4 21:15
PA Patrician (Tim Wile)

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Re: Tim's '55 Patrician
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Tim Wile
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Howard, I heard from Speedi-Bleed and they do not have an adapter for the BTV master cylinder and suggested that I try and make one from a spare cap. At this point in time, I'll try something else. The vacuum bleed is definitely not working.

I think I'll try and enlist my son to assist me later this week and try bleeding the system in the way that the service manual suggests. I was trying to avoid bringing a second person into this project, but it seems that it is inevitable if I'm to get the Patrician's brake system operational in anywhere in the near future.

Once I get the brakes working, I can then drop it off of the jackstands and back onto its tires so I can move it in and out of the garage. I'd like to turn it around so that the front end faces the door so I have a bit more light in the engine compartment. I still have that broken left-hand exhaust manifold to remove before I can finish installing the new exhaust system. For that, I think removing the left front fender will be in order which will give me a chance to clean up part of engine compartment.

Both front fenders need to be replaced and fortunately I was able to get a pretty nice pair of replacement fenders from Mike Dulinski. They will be quite an improvement over the two rusted ones that are currently on the car.

The late summer and fall are shaping up to be rather busy if things go well and I don't injury myself again like I did last year.

Posted on: 2013/8/4 22:09
PA Patrician (Tim Wile)

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Re: Tim's '55 Patrician
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Ross
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Take an old soda bottle or peanut butter jar with a screw on lid. Drill a hole in the lid and stick some small diameter rubber tubing through the lid and all the way to the bottom of the jar. Put a little brake fluid in the bottom. Push the free end of the hose over the bleeder screw that you have opened a good half turn.

Fill the master cylinder to the brim and pump it five times. Refill. Repeat. Do not close the bleeder till that wheel is done. The check valve in the master cylinder keeps it from drawing back, and even if it somehow does, the tube is submerged.

Make sure the pedal is coming all the way back up so the master cylinder can take a drink each time.

On a completely empty system it takes about 15 pumps to get the right rear wheel done, then about 5 for the left rear, 10 for the right front, and about 5 for the left front, in that order. Seriously, the whole job can be done by yourself without rushing in 15 minutes including a few sips on your coffee.

Posted on: 2013/8/5 6:28
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