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Hi Joe,

Let me make a couple of calls tomorrow.....

Thanks, Jim. Our accountant just had her Tahoe repaired at Oregon Drive Axel in "downtown" Tigard. I will call them in the morning, but they probably could do this or know where to get it done. I'm on Bull Mtn so close is good. Let me know if you can actually find a welder in the area. That would be interesting.

Joe, if I understand the construction of the rear brake hub and drum assembly, the two are fastened together with rivets that are between the lug bolt holes. If these rivets are removed, then, I think, the hub and drum would come apart. Simply, fastening the wheel to the hub and drum with the lug bolts should hold the brake drum in place.

Another, and probably better, way to secure the drum to the hub would be to tap threads into the rivet holes and use bolts with a low profile head to secure the hub and drum. This would ensure the centering of the drum on the hub.

Rear brake service would be made easier as the drum could be easily removed from the hub exposing the brake assembly. There would be no need to remove the drum and hub together with the task of using a hub puller and all that this entails.

I hope this helps to better understand my idea. Maybe someone here has tried this, if so let us know how it worked.

I wish I had a spare rear brake drum and hub with which to try out this idea.

Happy Holidays everyone.

(o{}o)

JW,
I have my old one. Perimeter rivets already broken. I could ship it to you for a donation to Big Kev.

Or maybe Jim L would like to try your recipe.

JR at Oregon Drive Axle in Tigard is doing the welding this morning.

IIRC, there was a poster in the SF bay area with I think a 22nd series. Last year maybe?? Someone had drilled out the rivets on at least one side to access the brake parts. Don't remember all the details as to whether the drum was also bent or just in pieces. Perhaps someone remembers the discussion and can reference it as to why but I believe the consensus was two pieces were not good and for him to find a new drum assy. If he managed to salvage his along the lines of this discussion that would be a good thing to know.

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Joe, can't see paying the freight to ship one of those drums across the country. Maybe someone near you could try this on your damaged drum. Thanks for the offer.

I periodically send contributions to Big Kev to support the site.

(o{}o)

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I'm glad you found someone to do it so quickly. For future reference, I've used Advanced Automotive at 9660 SW Tualatin-Sherwood Rd. in the past and I've got a friend who does welding but the downside is he is in Colton.

As for JW's brake recipe, it sounds intriguing but I don't have the tools to try it. Plus, brakes are one thing I don't have much to do with - I had the brake systems in both my Packards done at Advanced Automotive before I ever drove either much over 5 mph.

BRAKE DRUM: The brake drum studs are welded to the inside of the drum.

Tonight I proceeded to install it so I can drive the car. Bad news.
The drum won't go on all the way.

Before I had it welded it wouldn't go on all the way, either, but it appeared the old hub wouldn't either. So I thought, if it's hard to get off, perhaps it's hard to get on. At first I thought the key was hanging up. Perhaps I'm installing this incorrectly.

A couple of years ago when I removed and honed the brake cylinder on this wheel, I don't remember having any problems.

I should have been more aware.

When the new drum wouldn't go all the way on, even with some tapping, I had to use a puller to get it off. I then tried my old hub and it slipped on all the way.

I couldn't find any instruction for replacing the drum. It must just slip on. Only this one doesn't.

Is there a correct procedure, something I'm missing? The drum has been hit pretty hard, probably to remove it from a rusted spindle. You can see a punch mark on one side and a flattened area nearby.

I could keep tapping on it. If I could get it to the thread, I might be able to press it the rest of the way.

What a revolting development. Help, please.

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Thanks, OD. I'll try that to determine what's stopping it from sliding on. See if there's a high spot I can smooth down.

My son welded the 4 wheels originally and they all slipped on easily after. This time the studs were professionally spot welded (all $30 worth), so I doubt they warped the hub.

I suspect the hub is warped from being loosened, and I kick myself for not ensuring it would fit before welding. It's just that the numbers stamped on both drums were the same, so I assumed it just needed cleaning up.

You can see the hub was whacked pretty hard at some time in its life.

Gee, The Duchess has her Christmas lights on and everything! (Battery operated from Target 30% off).

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Joe, what a revolting development. Maybe the same drums, but different hubs because of larger axles on the 180? A Parts book may tell if there are different axles and brake drum assemblies on the 180s. Just a thought.

(o{}o)