Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

If my understanding of how these bushings work is correct I don't believe using free-floating spaces will allow proper function. Are they not 'elastic" bushings where the inner steel core should not be free to rotate about the shaft? Doesn't the core have gripping teeth on it for this purpose and thus the rotation occurs in the rubber and not on the shaft?

Quite so Dave! And thanks for pointing this out. That is why the torque specs for the nuts is so high - to make sure those teeth have a good "bite". The T-L system will not function properly unless this is done.

So begs the question. Should there be washers behind the bushings or not. I can't tell on mine but if they are present, the OD is not as large as Riki's. If there are washers present, why would a spacer act any differently. Obviously right or wrong, his arm gained a set sometime in it's lifetime.

The parts manual lists 5/8 nuts and washers which I could think might be for holding the large outer cupped washer at the end of bushing and shaft. It also lists 3/4 washers but doesn't show enough detail to see where they go.

A couple of years ago, I had my front end rebuilt by a mechanic I trust.using a kit from Kanter. My mechanic suggested that I replace several of the bushings with rolling bearings. I had him do so. Made a real difference and I am happy with it. I just worry that they may not wear as good as the bushings. I don't remember which bushings were involved.

You're right Howard, The 3/4 washer has an ID of 49/64. I wonder why such a precise measurement? And what is the OD??
It can't be 3/4, but the parts book obviously has an error in describing this washer.

Riki--looks like the left branch of your arm is bent out. If that is the case, you will never be able to get the caster into spec.

There are washers between the center portion of the shaft and the bushings. The ID is large compared to the OD so you might not notice them. Yes, the inner portion of the bushing must clamp tight to the shaft. All of the rotation of the arm takes place in the rubber. Otherwise you have soft steel turning on soft steel--and you can imagine how long that would last.

Hey, all,

ok,,

OD of washer, 1.333

ross looks that way to me too,,, but with out spacers, when I turned down the nuts distance went to 7 1/2.

i am hoping that when the nut is torqued down it will pull over.

the way it sits now its 8 1/2 inches,,

i do have doubts where Packard has distance on upper,,

on the lower it shows distance at bushings and that's how i am doing it,,

i measured the inner sleeve ,,, the ones i took off,,1-3/4

which i am sure i got from steve Williams. they don't have points on end.

the moog and raybestos about 1-1/2,,, there lines the problem....

Now the question,,,,

Are the spacers ok, with those points, they will stick to my spacer, so can't see movement there..

I am going to use them, to see how it works, it will give us another out, if the others are not around.

Then again,,, i like the needle bearing........need pictures,, might be to loose for TL..

Spacers should be ok as long as the INNER sleeve of the busking is pinched tite enuf so that it does not rotate on the shaft. My only concern, without visual inspection, is whether or not the OUTER steel shell of the bushing contacts the full length of the control arm hole that it presses into.

As for needle bearings;
Probably ok IF the needle bearing has an INNER race. Which means that the needles do NOT contact the cross shaft. Cross shaft is probably not hardened enuf to accomodate needle bearings rolling directly against it.

Why not try the Perfect Circle FB 346???? That's what i have in mine. NO problems.

BTW, BEFORE installing the control arm to the car be sure to loosen the end nuts that u now have tightened against the bushings. Allow the car to rest on the ground under it's own weight and then tighten the nuts.