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I use the Allback lindseed oil soap as all purpose cleaner. Pretty amazing stuff and no petroleum product in it. Viking also carries stainless steel scrub pads.

got the car moved over to the other side of the garage so i can really work on it and get it ready for the linseed oil.

gonna have to order all my body mounting pads and bolts, etc.

not even sure what size pad goes where to be honest, probably gonna have to be trial and error.

got all the body pieces out of the shed too.

looks like i forgot about how bad the passenger's side rocker was....so i'm gonna order a new one and repair that hole too. good thing is the fender will cover the hole, but the rocker i'll have to figure out how to make it look weathered like the rest when i paint it.

its been creased and its pretty crunchy sounding when i press on it.

driver's side is good still.

my son decided he would fix the hole for me with his drill. good kid!

but, i think the products from www.c2cfabrication.com will work fine and it should weld right up easy enough for my novice skills.

Hank

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scrubbed the fender down with a big metal brush this weekend to get rid of all the loose rust.

then i washed it with just normal soap and water to get any grease off.

it is now ready for linseed oil, which i plan to spray on. will use less this way and get into all the nooks and crannies. plus i got the sprayers so might as well use them.

i may do this tonight...i need some therapy after this monday so far.

i decided to leave the hole in the fender. not much i can do about that now. shoulda left it alone long time ago, but i wasn't planning on doing this then. i figured i would fix it.

thought about painting the inside of the fender wheel black after the linseed goes on. not sure though.

Hank

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my early inheritance.

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Hank,

Re: post # 1502 ..... ah-hem.......you are no novice sir!

thanks for the ego boost, but I do have lots to learn. ;0)

not sure if i'm going to replace the rocker panel or just hold on to the new one for a later date in the future and just fix the hole and try to oil inside the current rocker. if the trim will go on, I may leave the rocker it has on there. its down low and nobody will see it. when the rocker get really bad...I have the new one in stock. but i'm not sure yet.

I did the first fender tonight with the organic boiled linseed oil. I had my spray gun set too thick at first and it went on too thick and started to run. quick call to Stephen and decided to rub it down and spray it thinner. this was a very good idea. adjusted my spray gun and it went on thinner and did not run this time.

I did leave it on thick on the inner fender and wheel well. I figured it may take longer to dry, but it will be good to protect it better. I sprayed all in the hole in the fender too. good thing about spraying and the fact that it dries slow...it gets in all those parts you can't really reach just by spreading out.

I used my small spray gun and ended up using 2 of the siphons full. now that I have the gun set better I anticipate it will use less. I have plenty left over.

yes I watered down the rags.

the only other thing I may try to do next time is heat the oil a bit before applying it. it isn't really that thick as it sprayed really well, but Stephen has had better luck with heating it. but now that my gun is set better, i'm not sure I will need to. gonna be near 100 all week around here.

I like the shine, but i'm guessing some of that will fade as it dries.

the pics of the fender laying on its side is when I sprayed too thick. the pics of it sitting upright are the thinner spray ones.

I tried to get that dent out of the top of the fender, but the inner fender is in the way. I did get it out partially though.

I apologize in advance for any grammatical or spelling errors...but to be honest I really don't care. and to those that I lost because i'm taking this route with my paint....not really sorry...its my car and it makes me happy.

Hank

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Hank, I would say make everything as nice as you can make it now. With a restored engine and compartment, interior, and trunk the "Patina" body will only be more attractive, especially so with the body sitting on your wonderfully restored chassis. A real "Sleeper".

(o{}o)

I'm anxious to see how this patina thing and just the linseed oil finally comes out on metal. I'm familiar with it's wood uses but metal is a new one to me.

Questions I haven't seen answered: since it won't soak in and absorb like it would with wood, is it at all sticky when dried so it would be a dust magnet and if you should wash the car or get caught in a downpour, how often does it need to be touched up.

Looking good. I really like the way it looks. If you are looking at 100 degree temps you should be just fine with the pressure you are now using.

Howard, the linseed should be dry in approx 24 hours. It will continue to absorb into the metal and seal out oxygen in the rusty areas. Again, this is an organic linseed product without any chemical additives so it will perform differently than what we are used to getting as linseed oil. Here is link to where I first saw it used last year on a vehicle while I was taking wood preservation workshop at Viking Sales. We discussed using it on my car then.


http://www.solventfreepaint.com/info/case_study_OrganicRustproofing.htm

Nice! Looking forward to seeing it all put back together. Your '55 is going to be awesome; maybe I'll get to see it in person at the Salado meet next year.

-Garrett