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live and learn right! i just hope the hotrod shop can help me out. they turn out some pretty amazing stuff and are pretty much the go to place around here. suprised that some cable show hasn't picked them up.

well i guess at least i gave it a go before i gave in, most don't do that. hopefully i didn't cause any irreversable damage that will ruin my asperations of preserving the patina.

Why don't you call Viking? 585-nine two four- 8070. Ask for Soren. They are there 10-5 M-TR EST.

I am very sorry you are having all this trouble.

i'll give him a call. line is busy right now.

i just don't think it likes being sprayed on top of this old paint.

last night it was fine...this morning looked like poop.

i want something more then clearcoat, because clear wont stop the rusting and will just allow it to rust under it from what i've read.

Hank, I am thinking that mineral spirits will not affect the lacquer paint. It is used to clean off tar on these cars. Why not try a test area and see what happens?

(o{}o)

Quote:

Actually, modern clear coats are a barrier to water. The problem is the underlying surface. If you already have rust, you already have water. Unless the surface thoroughly dried before coating, you will still have water and the corrosion will proceed. Corrosion adds volume, resulting in blisters, which allow more water to enter.

One option for removing all water is spraying 100% ETOH on the surface in a very low humidity, warm environment. The ETOH will carry the water away as it evaporates.

Of course, the surface would also need to be completely cleaned of all hydrophilic substances.

This is probably not a helpful comment. For that I apologize. The professor in me sometimes overwhelms my better judgement.

Tom

Just playing devils advocate but is $1500 worth trying to protect patina or is your money better spent on derusting and priming? That you can prob do yourself for less than $1500. Drive it in primer until you are ready for proper paint.

I don't want it perfect. I don't want it primer. I want the paint that is on there. it is what makes my heart fell good. I think it looks better as it is rather then driving it around in primer. I think 1500 to paint this big ass car is pretty cheap, considering the shop. this is no collision paint center....they only do old stuff....its like those places you see on discovery channel, they do custom and hotrod work and the paint work is way above what any collision center could do.

I believe I fixed the trunk as best I could. I went ahead and used the mineral spirits.

I bought some foam rollers and just rolled it all on. it smoothed it out pretty good. I could have kept going, but I was afraid I would break through and mess up the paint. I scrubbed it with the mineral spirits and a foam 3m pad as well. then rolled some more linseed on to get rid of the marks from the rubbing pad and to put the shine back on that the mineral spirits dulled.

I think i'm going to be using the rollers from now on. I can apply it without it running right off. I may even thin it with mineral spirits when I do the rest of the car so it goes on super thin.

i'll leave the spraying to the inner panels and places nobody will see and its hard to get to by hand.

I took a fender to the hotrod shop, he wants to try a small piece first. so I took off the fuel door and covered it in linseed and will let it dry a week or more. then he will, free of charge, spray some clear on it, bake it, and see what happens.

I think it will work as the clear I sprayed out of the can is still holding up.

he was pretty intrigued by this little venture. since clear alone wont stop rust and having the linseed under it will.

the first three pics are the screwed up runny ones. the last three are after I fixed it best I could. WAY better then before.

thanks for putting up with my pissy times everyone and for always reading and pitching in in order to rescue me from the troubles I make for myself. its better to vent on my blog then to be a bad example to my kid. i'd rather you guys thought I was a whiny dumbass over my kid thinking that. its hard to be a good father 24/7, but I refuse to let him see me flipping a lid whenever possible. being a 4 y/o he flips a lid enough for the both of us. lol

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Looking much better! Don't get me wrong, I like the way you are going with the project. I thought you just wanted to have the car in patina for a while until you saved up for the professional job. IF that was the case, then the clear would have been too much. Since you are keeping it this way then you are on the right track.

I saw an early 50's Chevy drive past me a couple of days ago. It was weathered and a little rusty. Quiet as could be. No smoke. Running like a champ. Turn signals, brake lights, all working. I have to admit I was impressed and found myself wondering about the car's history a lot more than when I see a restored car go by.

woke up this morning to the runs again. it must be the shape of the trunk.

quick roller of mineral spirits and it was smoothed out again. left it at that....no new coat of linseed. i'm going to let this one just dry hard and if this clear coating works it'll shine with that.

i put the shop fan on it to dry it faster and its going to be 108 today in texas supposidly.

crazy how its fine and then 8 hours later its back to that weird running pattern. gotta be the trunk shape.

51...that is the goal with mine. preserved on the outside. interior prestine. engine tiptop. frame tiptop etc etc. drive anywhere and look awesome doing it.

everyone is trying to recreate this old paint patinas on the hotrods. the guy i saw yesterday at the shop said they just finished making a show car look like it came from a field. he said to have it be real, like it is on my car, is even more impressive despite all the work they put on the hotrod.

i think one day...there will probably be a class just for preserved paint.

Hank

I dunno if this is helpful but when I have used Linseed Oil (mainly on timber) I have added Terebine which is a dryer. It causes the oil to set. It might be worth checking whether you need to add a dryer like Terebine or some other type, to get the BLO harder and drying sooner.

I like the patina idea, have seen a few cars that were really schmick. One early 1900's car (- wooden spoked wheels so probably around 1915 vintage) was just totally rust-coloured without a single bit of paint on it. The owner had just driven this car for months all over the country touring, and it turned heads. Have never forgotten that car.