Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Hi All,
Well, something new has been added. I've begun to notice an unpleasant "ripping sound" when starting my 55 at the point when the engine starts & key is realeased. Not every time, but with more frequency. The starter was rebuilt during "The Great Service Catch Up" almost exactly one year and 1,000 miles ago. This first happened about a week and a half ago. A friend suggested a starter or ring gear but he's not a Packard guy.
I plan on crawling under to make sure the starter bolts are tight but aside from that....
Any thoughts?

Are you sure that the starter switch is fully returning immediately from "start" to "run" position? The switch in my 55 Pat was replaced about 10 years ago by me because it wouldn't return automatically from "start" to "run". I got a pretty good used switch from one of the vendors at the PI swap meet, but it is a little "balky" in returning. The vendor told me that in his experience, the return spring inside the switch gets weak causing this behavior. So, I've trained myself to keep my hand on the key when starting and help it return to "run" after the engine starts. If not, sometimes the starter will "screech" as it is still engaged when it should not be. Maybe that's your problem too.

Craig

Short answer: I don't know. I've heard that the design or manufacturing of the originals weren't that great

It was the ignition switch's death that caused my Pat to be parked for 30 odd years so I got a new one from Max Merritt but anything's possible. IMHO the "new" one doesn't feel all that positive, if you know what I mean. It doesn't have a solid feel to it when going from position to position. I'll follow your method and see if that does the trick.

Thanks Craig!

P.S. It may be a localized virus. Yesterday I started up my 1975 Lincoln Mark IV for the first time in over a year. It's starter is making that same noise now all the time - where as it didn't before.

This morning I figured that by nightfall I'd grimy and greasy from crawlying under my 55 and dealing with a "screeching" starter.

Fortunatly, I posted about it and Craig pointed me to the ignition switch. I thanked him for that then. I REALLY want to thank him for that NOW.

This afternoon, I got in my '55, turned the key and as usual, she started right up - with no screeching. So I turned her off, and aftre a few seconds tried it again. Again started right up and again, with no screech. Just as I was getting ready to turn her off the engine stopped. So was it fuel related or electrical. I got out and opened the hood to look at the filter fuel bowl and saw that was full of gas just like it's supposed to be. I went back in and in an attempt to further rule of the fuel side turned the key without putting my foot on the gas. Started right up, with no stumble or worries. I let it idle for a while then turned it off and did another re-start. This time there was a "screech" when letting go of the key. went to shut it off and again, before I could turn in off, the engine died - sounding and feeling exactly like someone turned off the ignition. Only no one did. I went to restart and NOTHING! Tried it again and the engine started right up but so did the screech.
I shut her off myself to go and look at the electrical diagram.

According to my reading of the diagram, for the engine to start and run, juice goes from the battery to the big copper terminal on the starter relay. There are three red wires exiting from that terminal: One to the Torsion-Level System; One to the Power Windows/Seats/Etc. and; One, wire number 1A to the Ammeter. From the Ammeter, the juice flows to a splice. The Splice sends the juice from the Battery and Ammeter to: The Headlight Switch; The Fuse Block; The Voltage Regulator; AND then to the Ignition Switch.

When I was doing all this starting of the engine I had the driver's door open 'cause it's hot here today. Oh I Also want to add that this dying happened for the first time yesterday. My point about the door is that the Map Light was on the whole time. It never went out, it never flickered and it only dimmed when the starter motor was actually turning. That last bit struck me as important because when I turned the key the one time to start and nothing happened - nothing happened to the light, either. That tells me that the reason the starter didn't run on that ocassion is that it never got the memo, no juice went to the starter so the light had no reason to dim.

My conclusions, Holmes, is that the switch is on it's way OUT.

However, I've been known to completely miss the boat before so PLEASE anyone who sees a better idea please jump in.

I did check my binder I have assembled for my 55 and sure enough, my first order for this car to Max Merritt: One (1) 439960 Ignition Switch, Rebuilt $125.00 with $30 Core Charge Dated 01/05/11. Now I didn't expect this one to last forever but since the car really didn't see the road untill June of last year I did hope that it would last a little longer than a year.

So anyone please ..... Chime in and yes! Thank you again Craig!

N.O.S ignition switch on ebait for twenty bucks...

I think you're right on with the diagnosis and if you can, grab the switch. As far as rebuilt switches, without knowing a whole lot more about the process I wouldn't trust them.

THANK You !

Do you remember what listing it's under?

PM sent with link

could the pinion be dry,,,?..needing lube,,clutch?

Go.to.aurozone and buy an aftermarket generic ignition switch for less than $15 and transfer the wires. This will at least let you prove or disprove a faulty switch and get you by until a good original switch can be sourced.