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Kev, the insulation you installed on the roof should protect the inside of the Clipper from outside heat. I expect you will be doing all the inside panels so as to have a fully insulated interior. I used a similar product to insulate the hood of my 55 Clipper and used 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. It did not hold. I went back and secured the insulation mat with 3M Trim Cement. This stuff really holds things in place. Maybe you will have better luck with the Super 90. I must say, your Clipper is coming together nicely.

(o{}o)

I ordered a roll of the insulation for my Clipper, does one roll do the headliner complete? Did you insulate or are you going to insulate the door panels with the same material?

I went ahead with the EZ Cool. Biggest piece I saw advertised of the HR700 material was 4'x6' and would have needed several rolls to do the entire roof, floor and firewall. Price worked out about the same ordering the 4x50' roll of EZCool and should have a bit left over if I want a second layer in spots.

It is slightly thinner at 3/16 and foam core instead of jute but unless they are all falsehoods, both products sound good. EZCool is little lighter in weight so maybe less likely to fall off roof. Time will tell if I screwed up but that will be the next owner's determination. The EZCool distributor recommends 3M 08080 adhesive so I ordered a couple of cans thru Amazon. That probably would work for any of the other aluminum backed products.

I recently finished the interior of the Roadster with new carpeting. The car already had Dynamat sound deadening material throughout the interior of the body. A photo of the trunk area shows the Dynamat material in place. It is a heavy foil with an adhesive-backed dense rubberized backing. Commonly used in the street rods.

I insulated the cowl wall and floor of the passenger compartment with the foil-faced bubble insulation from Lowe's over the existing Dynamat. I then placed an indoor-outdoor carpeting material, also from Lowe's (same as used on the trunk and interior of the 55 Clipper) on top of the insulation. One type of material for noise control in place, and added insulation for heat control.

The added insulation material made a great improvement in the amount of heat coming into the passenger compartment and made some improvement in noise too. I would expect that in a closed car the improvements would be greater.

Most probably the materials that Kev and Howard have selected will do an excellent job of insulating with just one type being used. Looking forward to their progress reports.

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I plan on doing the door panels and other areas (kick panels, B & C pillars) with the Dynamat knockoff product. One thing to note, Dynamat (and the knockoffs of similar construction - butyle rubber & foil) was developed to reduce noise specifically from panel vibration (aka drumming). While it does help some with insulation, it is really a sound deadening product as opposed to an acutual insulation product, and used primarily to quiet an interior.

The floor was recoated to match the asphalt based coating that came from the factory. I may do layer of the HR700 product if needed to help with the heat. I really think most of the heat is going to come from the sun beating down on the roof, so that is why I wanted something thicker up there. The Dynamat knockoff of the doors should help reduce road noise and act as a moisture barrier under the original door panels. Obviously the HR700 is too thick for the doors and other areas to use under the upholstery panels. Plus it needs to stay away from the moisture present in the doors because of the internal jute construction.

I think I got two rolls of the HR700 from the local Rod Shop for ~$40. So only ~$20 a roll. And yes, two rolls were needed for the roof, with about 1/3 of a roll left over which I will use on the rear package tray.

One roll is just a few inches short each end and side of the 2 door sedan. I hate to buy another role to finish the job. I am thinking to use some Lowes insulation I have to finish off the jobon the edges.
Kev , are you going to be doing your own headliner and door panels? I am getting ready to do my door panels and I always looked forward to your process for my guidance. Ditto on the headliner.

I have original door panels in good shape that came from the same '54 Super Clipper that the seats came from. So I will use those. The headliner I will buy a pre-sewn replacement and probably have a go at it myself. Also i will need to buy extra material to do the B & C Pillar areas, and also the sun visors.

Worked on rebuilding the package tray panel. Original was a sandwich of tar paper and cardboard layers. The top most layer be painted cardboard. All held together with button fasteners and the window trim.

My original was falling apart in pieces and warped with parts bowed in the holes in the steel body panel. So I cut a new bottom layer out of door panel board, and made it double thick by glueing the sheets together. Then to the bottom I added some of the same insulation I used on the roof. This will conform to the shape of the metal panel and provide some insulation and sound deadening. I still need to cut the top part which is larger. But I need some wider panel board for that. It will then get painted with the interor parts.

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Kev, nice looking job. My panel was in better shape than yours. I reused it and covered it with the same carpeting material used on the floors. A little more plush look. What kind of carpeting are you thinking about using?

I bought a heel pad from Steele as well as a grommet to fit around the accelerator pedal bracket, and an accordian (sp.?) shaped grommet to fit around the accelerator linkage where it goes through the floor board. Made a nice finished look. Still need to make some grommets to fit around the brake and clutch pedals.

(o{}o)

Here are photos of the Steele parts.

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