Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Last night I did a continuity test on all wires attached to the ignition switch with the exception of the power antenna lead. All check out "good". I then checked the rebuilt ignition switch I bought from Max Merritt a little over a year ago and it check out "good" as well. I then reinstalled the MM switch but as it was late, put off a trial run until morning.

Actually this afternoon as my body went on a small strike over all the twisting I've made it do the last few days. However I did go out and; leaving the glove box in the back seat and placing a light to shine fully on the ignition switch now visable through the glove box opening; I started the car. And it started right up. And ran very well. I layed there and watched & sniffed the ignition switch for 15 minutes while doing a touch temperature test on the ignition switch from time to time. No smoke and switch was cool to the touch through out.

I did find that the wire to the condenser for the radio on the distributor had come out of the condenser body and was about a 1/4" from touching the engine - a possible dead ground that would kill the engine?

I removed the wire.

Could such a wire touching the engine as the area heats up cause such a stall? I told you all I was an idiot about electricity. This question should prove it.

Next step it to go get the Ford switch I reserved at NAPA. The plan is to see if removing that wire ends the stalling. If not, I'll install the Ford Switch and see what that does.

By the way, the NOS switch that Flackmaster put me onto: As bad as it looks, it still checks out as "good". Is that possible?

I found what appeared to be a close match ignition switch on the NAPA website. I reserved it and picked it up Saturday afternoon. I would work except I couldn't re-use the Packard Bezel and the piece that came with the switch wouldn't cover the hole in the instrument board left for the ignition switch light. To top it off, I ran into a problem I didn't think could possibly exist. The back side of the instrument board is too smooth and slippery to keep the whole switch from turning when I tried to turn the key to start the engine. It has a very heavy spring and no matter how tight I turn the mounting screws, I just wouldn't stay put.

This brought me to the point of asking just how much modification I was willing to make to a car I was attempting to preserve and for what I intended to be a temporary fix. And really, I was not convinced that the engine stalling was caused by the ignition switch beyond a shadow of doubt onto a moral certainty.

I then came up with the idea I should have had in the first place. I re-installed the Max Merritt switch but added a yellow wire about 8 inches long with a female plug to the ignition post on the ignition switch. I also made up a black wire with a female plug and attached that to one of the glove box screws. I then made up a light that will plug into the two wires so that when the ignition switch is turned to "RUN" it will light up and will only light up in the "RUN" position. This way should the engine stall, I have only to look down to see if the light is on. If it is, I then know that the cause of the stall is somewhere "South" of the ignition switch and NOT the switch it's self. If the light is OUT, then I know that the switch is GUILTY!
I'll be damned if I spent all that time polishing out that car just to have it sit under a car cover in the garage all summer.

The stalling brought something new to my attention. When the engine quits, so does the power assit on the brakes. No "one or two stops" courtesy of the reserve vacuum tank. Just a very hard pedal.

So, I'm guessing that my problem is somewhere between the Vacuum Tank and the (senior moment here) Vacuum Valve at the back of the carburator?

Is there anything else I should be checking? The brakes are fine otherwise and the system is 100% stock rebuilt Treadle-Vac.

Thank you all for all your help in the past and in advance for any light you can shed on my reserve brake problem.

The Packard bezel is what keeps the ign switch from twisting -- via the small rectangular notch at the bottom of the hole.

Does the nose of the Ford switch fit inside the Packard bezel? To put it another way, the diameter of the Packard switch where the pins are located and twist into the bezel is slightly under 3/4 inch. What does the Ford measure.

Put a rubber washer on the ford lock shaft and tighten down the bezel really good. The rubber should keep it from twisting.

The nose does fit inside the bezel and it looks perfect. Actually, the counter guy at NAPA suggeted a universal switch instead of the Ford. The uni switch would be great except that the spring strength - much greater than even the Packard NOS switch - makes it impossible to keep the switch from turning.

BigKev - thats brilliant ! that will do the trick. I was thinking of a giant lock washer for the backside of the instrument board but didn't really want to scratch up the smooth finish. Wouldn't bother me for my time with this car, but a future caretaker might have other agendas. That still leaves the ignition light cut-out. For now, I'm running with the Max Merritt rebuilt with the blue "Ignition On" light I've wired in. A slightly modified heater hose clamp keeps the Packard Bezel & Ignition Switch together or seems to for now.

Drove around this afternoon for about 8 miles of street & freeway driving - no ignition problems.

However I did notice that there is no exhaust gas exiting the driver's side exhaust pipe. I ran a plumber's snake all the way back to the muffler where I came to a stop. I'm guessing the internals of the muffler have collapsed. The rest of the system is OK for now which is good as I just don't have the money for a new exhaust system lying about. However, I'm clearly going to have to do something about that muffler. Any suggestions on a quick fix?

Tomorrow I'm going to do a vacuum test on the brake vacuum tank, valve and line. At least this is happening in the Summer.

I think you will find that the heat riser valve between the left exhaust manifold and first pipe is stuck shut. That will cause all manner of running, heating, and performance problems as all the left exhaust must pass under the carburetor.

You can only snake a glasspack style muffler. The baffles in any normal muffler will preclude that.

Hi Ross, and thank you for your thoughts on "The Cast of the Missing Exhaust". I did check the heat riser and it is turning free so I think the problem in downstream from that. I know almost as much about mufflers as I do about auto electricals. The one in question has a little dime size hole in it which is showing some pink material. The shape of the muffler is ovoid or rounded rectangle. I was under the impression that "Glass Pacs" were round but what do I know. The car sounds like glass pacs as the hole I mentioned is the only visable hole in the whole system. The other side is working hale a hearty.

I suppose I'm really asking for it by driving this car at all until I get that muffler sorted?

jim the spring, might not be working,, I wire mine open,,, and thinking of making a piece to re place it,,,

not sure if a piece of copper tubing over barrel and make arms, would work,, trim piece,,that's over the trim piece,

or get Howard's kit,

Hi Riki. Thanks by the way, for all the thoughtful help you've given me on this and other things.

I removed the LF wheel and since the rubber splash shield is gone I was able to see what the riser was up to when I had someone goose the gas pedal. I could see the weight move and all so I really think that the riser is guiltless in this.

Your idea for the bezel sounds pretty good. I think I've got some old copper tubing left over from a plumbing upgrade I did on the house so I'll keep that in mind. For the moment, my heater hose seems to work pretty well. I cut some of the "rungs on the ladder" and bent them down which seem to give added "grab".

If this fails, I just might borrow your suggestion.

How about this one?

ebay.com/itm/1955-Packard-ignition-switc ... Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr