Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Thanks everyone for the advice and help. I just talked to Mike Dulinski and a correct carb is on it's way. Brian

I've had the Rochester 4GC carb on my '55 400 professionally re-built about a year ago and that engine just hums. I'm happy that you've decided to remain with an OEM carb for your Packard.

I had a number of problems with the 4GC carb in my 400; so much so that I finnally put a edelbrock in its place. The main problem I have found is pinholes in the floats-of course when the floats load up with gasoline they sink causing the whole carb to malfunction. I checked on the internet to see if new floats were available-I was literally told by every carb rebuilder and carb kit supplier that no they dont exist you have to repair what you have.
About a year ago I made a trip out to Lancaster Country in Pa to Bob Stoltzfus to buy a few parts for my car; the subject came up and I mentioned the problems I had with the 4GC, specifically the floats. He asked me if I ever heard of Daytona Carb. I said I had not-he was pretty sure they had BRAND NEW FLOATS for the 4GC. and here they are below. I would strongly suggest you consult Daytona if you want to run with the 4GC. I have been told by several people that they are the TOP carb rebuilders in the country.

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check the parts ref, ford has the floats,,which costs less

I pulled the carb and took it apart. The floats were fine and in proper alignment and height. The problem with my carb was the jets. First of all, the carb on my engine is not the correct carb. It had the wrong jets in it, much larger than stock and the venturis on the primary side are also incorrect, . Also the ball that goes in the accelerator pump chamber was jammed into its seat and I was unable to free it. I have no idea how the accelerator pump is getting fuel to it but it is. I installed the correct size jets and have stopped a lot of the rich issues. It will do untill I get my "new to me" carb. I will do a rebuild myself and see how that goes befor commiting to sending it to Daytona, where so many have had good results.

Brian - I recommend you buy your rebuild kit from Daytona. High quality and correct parts.

Here is a suggestion for freeing the stuck accelerator pump ball check. Disassemble the carburetor to where the center section has had all of its parts removed. Then, turn it upside down and carefully, but firmly, and I repeat carefully but firmly, "slam" it down on a smooth and flat surface like the top of a workbench. This impact may free the ball. You may also try cooling it first. Just a couple of suggestions, but exercise care.

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I tried that. Even soaked it with WD 40 and applied 90 psi to the other side to try to blow it out of there. The check ball has been driven into the seat. Unfortunately it is a steel check ball, not the normal aluminum one so drilling it out was not possible. This carb will become a parts carb when the other one is in place.

Riki, do you have a Ford reference number or model number for the floats. I would like to follow up on this as I know my carb has floats that are different in shape and one set are a little buckled. I'm pretty sure they don't leak though and the carb seems to work OK, but I would like to make sure I've got everything in tip top condition. Regards, John

Hi, JP,

according to the parts ref,

Part no. COAZ-9202 B,, Motorcraft (ford), from turbopackman,

It has been a number of years, but IIRC, some of those accel pump check balls were "staked" in place. I don't recall if there was a collar or not, but I do remember having to cut away 3 small protrusions of metal that kept the ball from being pulled out of location by the pump action. Restaking was just a matter of using a small punch and hammer and moving a little bit of metal from the surround to keep the ball in place.
HTH,
John