Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

With no filtration, I was not surprised to have to poke out some of the motor oil. I'm preparing for the kerosine flushes next(i.e.not running). But it got me thinking how good the oil pump is? I saw it's a gear pump, and it's old timey all metal, so it'll work as long as it turns and the stuff can get to it. But what's the experience tell us? Rebuild regrets?
The gas tank was no surprise either. The issue everyone similarly faces is how to best limit the damage. Is it best to send your problem to someone else? Do it yourself?
or what? Exchange vs repair? Recommendations on kits? I'm sure that's a, it depends, question so I'm saying mine is average, sludge and rust, but overall the tank is very solid. I'm whisking off the sending unit Monday, so that's covered. It was similarly rusty and had a large wad stuck on it so it always read empty I'm sure, but the wire was gone.

I just got through with both of these repairs, so I will butt in. My engine (with no external oil filter) had a sufficient number of miles on it (100K) but the oil pump had surprisingly little wear. Mostly in the relief pressure plunger and a bit of end play wear. I think Packard used very good metal. I bought an oil pump rebuild kit anyway (which replaces the two meshing pump gears and drive shaft). You do not get a new driving gear which mates with the cam, so a local machine guy drilled the new shaft to install my existing driving gear and set the proper end play, plus tank cleaned it all for $30.
I did have some oil pan sludge that I scraped out and cleaned with kerosene. I am going back with an external bypass-type oil filter mounted on the side of the engine.

On the gas tank, mine was not rusted out that I know of but had the stinky gas syndrome from gas sitting in there too many years. I have only been moderately successful on these home gas tank repair kits, so I turned to the source that I have used for 20 years...GasTank Renu. They clean out the tank and bake in a rubber-like coating that is warranted for life. Many dealers around the country but I use a radiator shop in WV.
GOOD LUCK !
40Clubcoupe

Any info on what they charge for the tank ReNu? I see WV is the closest to me.

Dear Catfish:

Depending on what model you have it will be better to drop the pan and clean the motor that way. Using a flush will stir up what is in there and make things even worse.

The hardest Packard pan to drop is the 55-56 with exhaust crossover. The V-12 is the easiest.

Yes, Mr. Cole is correct. Dropping the pan for a clean is the only way to go. I had a bit of oily slime on motor components as viewed from the bottom looking up, but the sludge in the bottom of pan was too hard for kerosene to have done anything...that's putty knife action and then clean it spotless with kerosene. I have the 110 six and 120 eight engines. I believe I saw where Packard advised dropping the pan for a clean yearly, but perhaps with faithful oil changes and a bypass filter I can eliminate that yearly.
I have used Henry's Radiator Shop in Beckley,WV many times for gas tank work. The Packard was the highest I ever paid at about $250. Perhaps that sounds like a lot, but it's peace of mind for me. GasTank Renu stands behind the work and I have never had any tank failures since using them in the early 90's.
40Clubcoupe

I agree the best long term solution would be to pull the motor, go through it, rebuild, and reinstall, but that's not my mission here. I drain out what looked like Marvel mystery oil so things might already be messed up. I'm only trying to move the loose sludge out of the pan to put new oil in so it doesn't clog things up worse. I'm not worried about the hard stuff that kerosene won't touch or further up in the motor. I only need to assess if the motor runs or not, not how well or what's best. I've not decided whether to restore, sell, or do something else. Alot hinges on if it runs as is or not. There's a fair probability it won't go or it'll be ugly (rings, stuck lifters, etc.), so why sink more time/work($) in to watch that? I can use that money for rebuild/new. If it runs, it doubles it's value.

It's sad that it costs more to repair a tank than you can buy a new one for, if one could find a new one that "fit".
Might needs some bench engineering on this one. Seek out a new replacement tank that's close and retrofit or if the local radiator guy can split it, I/he might be able to blast it and get him to put it back together and then seal it. If I resto mod it, I might do custom SS or aluminum.

My choice for fuel tank restoration is the POR15 epoxy system. I have several tanks that have been in service for 10+ years with no issues. Like anything else, its all in the preparation.

por15.com/Fuel-System-Restoration_c_17.html

Improvise, adapt, and overcome.
After searching for days, I think I found a new tank that I can adapt for less than half the price of a repair. The bad news, costs almost as much to ship it.
I've been cleaning mine for two days now and it still smells like gas and the fuel line outlet has no plug in it but is water tight! Must be a rusted shut plugged screen in there. There's a good amount of solids. I'm going out now to try and flush them out but these tanks aren't designed for cleaning. So I don't hold much hope for this one except peel apart, blast, reseal, coat like a Renu job. That's more time and money. Long term I'll probably reroute the fuel fill and do away with the fender door anyway. I thought about a mustang type, with the filler in the trunk, which solves some floor pan issues, but I don't like gas in the passenger compartment. There's no fire wall on that side.