Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I am in the process of making a adjustable pin for the front end but have a one question. The pin that came out of the car has a female cup on the top (which the torsion bar sits into) a long shaft and a large washer on the bottom end, then the shaft is mushroomed on the bottom side of the washer.

Currently I am using a 3/4" bolt with a washer and jamnut on top of the washer as the bottom side the bolt then screws into a union with the cup on top of the union (you change out the bolt for longer lengths. However, the diameter of the bolt head is larger than the mushroomed piece coming out.

So my question is, on the lower control arm, does the pin sit on the mushroomed end piece or on the washer? and if it sits on the mushroomed end piece can it be a little bit bigger 1" vs 1.2" or do I need to grind the head of the bolt down?

Thanks
Bill

Kind of curious what or exactly where the washer is. The link should seat in a cup on the bottom as this illustration shows.

This is a 55 illustration. The geometry and cup arrangement was changed in 56 because of a clicking or snapping noise on 55s when the wheels were near max travel. I would think the diameter and shape of the link seating in the cups would be somewhat important and should be kept as close to original design as possible.

EDIT: Reading bulletin 55T-37 pertaining to the snap noise, I believe the washer you refer to may actually be a water and debris seal. It should be on top of the cup to keep dirt from falling and collecting in the cup. Here is another illustration showing the 55 link construction and seal. Don't believe the washer or seal is used in 56 because orientation of the load link was changed.

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Bill,

Some pictures to help clarify, maybe?

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So, on the second picture down on the bottom there is that large washer. That is the washer I am talking about. It looks as if the rod went through the washer and is mushroomed around the the hole to hold it. It is a not pretty or consistent. Which is why I thought it may sit on the washer, but if there is a cup it sits into then I will have to grind the bolt head down. Or on a second note, is that washer even needed, there is no rubber piece on the bottom like the top. Although mine may be gone.

If I don't need the washer then I can just use a 3/4" rod and cut it to different lengths.

I looked at the panther packard one and mine looks nothing like that. I have a cup on top.

The very bottom picture that kevin az posted showes the top to be two pieces, a straight rod that slips into the cup and the torsion bar slips on top of the cup. Is mine supposed to be this way, because mine sure felt like a solid one piece setup.

As mentioned in the edit portion of my post, bulletin 55T-37 detailing the snap noise says that washer is a seal. Most likely there to keep dirt, rocks, water, whatever from falling into the cup and washing out or contaminating the grease. With the 55 geometry, IMO it would be a good idea to keep it. As the parts illustration shows, in 56 they reversed the positions so the cup is at the top and opening faces downward so seal is not really needed.

I believe there is a bulletin about snapping noise on the 55's. The mating parts were redesigned I think as well.

HH is right about the upside down cups, in 55 they held moisture, I think there was a lubricant put in the cups, but the redesign and upside down cups did not need the lubricant.

55 NC Clipper -

Take close looks at the parts books illustration (Plate No. 32B), namely the inset with the front load arm details. The factory load arm link is NOT one piece - with good reason. The pin/shaft is fitted with special bearings on either end that seat on a corresponding mate on the control arm and load arm. There also also some interesting things you may learn WRRT what's used and where in the applications listings.

For a better perspective on the whys and wherefores, read SAE Torsion Level Suspension paper. Then, review the STB that HH56 cited for additional insights on re-design of that part for 1956.

Ok, I will read it, has anybody tried to take the load links apart? How hard is it?

Apparently not too bad. That bulletin 55T-37 available in the literature section tells how.

Never worked on a 55 pin but the 56 pins are duck soup to take apart - the end caps are just pressed into a hole in the pin. Secure the pin or the cap and just rotate with a little force and pull out. If you want longer pins, just get a suitable length of good, high quality steel like hardened drill rod, drill the holes in the ends and press the end caps back in.

Note that there is a limit to how long a pin you can use before you throw the front end geometry off. I'd also recommend a front end alignment check after changing pin length.