Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Probably the best way to determine the condition of the top end of the engine is to pull the head. You can probably have the thing off and determine the condition of the valves and cylinders in the time it takes to do a compression test. That's what I would do as your test results indicate a problem with at least two of the cylinders. A valve adjustment will not fix a burnt valve. Good luck with your Packard, it will bring you lots of enjoyment once it is running properly.

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yes.
the last comment is the best advice. a valve adjustment will not fix a burnt valve. Which sounds like the likely culprit. Pull the head. head gaskets can leak weird too. mine had a a dual blown head gasket and still ran. replaced it and it was great. a leak down test always a good idea. do you know how to do that? where it leaks. ?? wet will hold the rings tight. will blow through valves. listen through intake or exhaust ... ( or water jacket , or adjacent cylinder) good hunting!

ALL of the suggestions and tips are very much appreciated...Thank you very much.

Rusty, you mention head gasket causing a problem, so would a check on the torque of nuts to head be out of question?
Wes

. yes. i agree. i did that too. retouque the head. then recheck leak down test

I never mentioned the head gasket but go ahead and torque the head if you want to. It can't hurt anything.

To clarify, what I said was this:

1) At 97,000 miles your engine is shot. Kaput, worn out, due for a complete rebuild.

2) There is a chance it was already rebuilt and it now has a relatively minor problem.

3) The only way to know for sure is to take the head off and look.

4) If you are not a mechanic it will be best to seek out an old time mechanic familiar with this type of car.

A new car mechanic would be completely lost. For example anyone with less than 20 years experience had probably never worked on a carburetor or points ignition.

If he has than 50 years experience he has probably never worked on a flathead engine. Unless he specializes in antique cars.

A good way to find someone like that is to ask your antique car club buddies.

If you decide to pull the head, be sure to soak all of the studs with PB Blaster or automatic transmission fluid with some acetone in it. There is a tendency for rust to collect around the studs, which makes it very difficult to pull the head. On my 51, I bought three Purdy putty knives as they are very strong and stiff. I sharpened them on the grinder to a very fine angle, and then tapped them into the gap between the head and the block. The trick is to go between the bolts, use a rubber hammer, and slowly work your way around the block. I took some bolts the same size as the spark plugs, and attached a chain to two of them and put a slight strain on it using an engine hoist. I was able to pop the head off in about a half hour using that technique. Just don't get crazy with the hammer - you can scratch the head if you get over vigorous. I've also heard of guys loosening the head by removing the head nuts, and cranking the engine with the spark plugs removed, allowing the pressure to pop it loose. My engines were always too tight to work, but it is probably worth your while to try that technique first.

Good luck - I predict at least a new set of rings, bearings and valves in your engine overhaul.

After rereading different posts about adjusting valves, tomorrow, I will adj the valves cold, then warm (run) the engine and check them while it running. One of two things will happen......no change/change. If there is no change then I will remove the head using Dave Grubbs' directions (thank you) and see what I can determine from the top end.

FWIW, I did do a leak down test but found the results very confusing. # 1 cyl....as I visualized the lifters in the bores, I used a remote S/W and bumped the engine until both lifters were down in their bores. I put 100#s of air into the cyl and there was no leak. As I moved rearward I got to the back 4 cyls and using the same technique....visualizing the lifters down into their bores and adding air, at 40/60 #'s there was a slight bump of the engine and then air would escape from the oil add tube, and 1 to 2 forward cyl. I would shut off the air, re visualize both valves are closed (or at least in the closed position) I would rerun the test and the above problem would present....This happened in 5,6 and 7 cyl.. (not in firing order but just front to back order. So, tomorrow I'll adjust the valves and go from there. I appreciate all the help.