Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

It may be the cigar lighter, I hear they cause a lot of problems on Packards....

Now, Eric, if you'd just 'splain what the Mark I Chevy BB was, I could stop holding my breath.

mikec,

You're getting a lot of expert advice and seem to be getting closer to the problem. Pulling a valve cover (or head on a flathead) can help pin down a noise real quick. Sometimes, on an engine that makes a funny noise, you can quickly narrow it down to a little thing like a broken piston! I hope that isn't the case for you, but it's amazing what can go wrong and a strong engine will keep going undaunted... for a little while.

Some of the guys mentioned another quick way to assess damage and see how far you have to go... take off the oil pan.

I think that on any old car, one of the best first steps before a lot of mechanical work is to pull the oil plan and check for sludge build-up etc. You'll feel so much better after you know you're putting clean oil in a clean pan. Also, I would pull the pan BEFORE pouring in ATF, MM or other engine-cleaning solvents. That way you don't overload the oiling system with crud that possibly won't flush out of the oil passages.

If the pan hasn't been off for a while, have a putty knife handy for scraping it!

P.S. When you pull those plug wires one at a time--an excellent idea--be sure to listen for an RPM drop (there SHOULD be one) as well as an affect on the noise.

I thought I did that already, it was the venerable Packard V8.

Ach! Sorry for the misunderstanding. I thought your post regarding GM's interest in Packard engine design for their BB was separate from the MK I question. It is a more fitting topic for a thread on the V8 forum anyway. I will get outta here now.

i hope the gaskets get here soon.

how much of the suspension/steering do i need to remove to get the pan down?

i will drop the pan, clean it, then do a quick run with cheap oil and marvel, then drain and refill. i have been using 10w-30, because the manual says it is acceptable. should i be using straight 20wt in the coming winter, and straight 30wt in the summer? i have never seen 20wt oil, but i will look for it.

BH, i think your right about the excessive sludge breaking loose. it seems like the oil gets warm, the stuff gets stirred up, and then it plugs a lifter or two.

Dropping the oil pan is straight forward and simple, just follow the instructions in the shop manual. You won't need to do anything with the suspension/steering except to drop the steering idler from the frame, remove the starter motor, and if you have dual exhaust, drop one header pipe.

When you've got the pan down, it would be wise to remove the floating intake screen on the pump and also clean it thoroughly. I'd also suggest dropping one or more of the main bearing caps (#s 2,3,or 4 best candidates) for examination and checking clearance with Plastigage or similar. Ditto for the rods; give them all a quick check for obvious looseness and if nothing obvious appears, remove and check a few of them; if everything here checks out OK it's worth the little extra work just in peace-of-mind.

FWIW, don't overstrain your brain on engine oil. There has been more worry and mis-information about oil on the net than any other single car topic. The old straight-weight oil was only recommended before there was multi-weight oil. Depending on how worn your engine is, go with a premium 10-30 in the winter, in the summer 10-40 or, 20-50 and you'll be fine. Packard V8s use light valve springs, thus don't wear cam lobes, so all the hysteria about changes in formulation is not really cause for our concern.

thnx, jack vines

Jack has excellent advice on the oil. I run the 10w-30 cool weather and 10w-40 summer.

The biggest problem removing the pan MITE be the lower bellhousing half. They were stuck real tite on Both of my cars and NOT due to rust. It's a HEAVY mutha and weighs about 20-25 pounds so don't let it fall on your face. Keep a long bolt in it real loose until the bellhousing comes loose.

I had to use a slide hammer and screw it into one of the verticle threaded holes on each side flange. Alternating from side to side and moving it little each time.


When the pan comes down there is JUST BARELY enuf clearence to clear the starter ring gear. Mite have to rotate the crank to clear the front c'weight on the crankshaft. Be sure all of the dirt is cleared from the top of the crossmember otherwise it mite interfere with the pan clearing the ring gear.

--=*=-- BE SURE to check dipstick/oil pump float for interference!! --=*=--

If the dipstick tube is real rusty or stubborn to remove then place a large clamp around the pan and against the dipstick tube flange to keep from breaking it out of the pan. I've taken them down withOUT removing the tube but it can be more difficlult.

dropped the pan this weekend. what a pain in the ass. removed exhaust, starter and steering. steeribg was a nighmare to take apart. 1/3 inch of sludge. strainer was ok. ran home from my friends shop with a quart of marvel and a quart of diesel n the case and not a peep.