Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Does anyone, with a historical perspective, know if "Frigikar" has any relationship to "Frigiking"? A Google and Wiki search seems to mix and match, making the names almost synonymous. Both seem based, if you look at the name plates on the units, in Dallas, TX.

According to a chart made by by Popular Science magazine in the mid 50's, Frigikar was the manufacturer and Frigiking was a brand made by Frigikar.

What is interesting is in that same PopSci chart they said many of the AC companies including Frigikar made units for all mfgs except S-P and American Motors -- yet there are several of the units supposedly not made for an S-P car installed in a Packard. Does make one wonder what exactly the chart meant when they said no units were available for S-P cars -- something styled and labeled for a brand like the unit NOVI made for S-P or if the not mentioned cars had to use universal fit items and a dealer did the fitting and engineering.

On the substituting a Packard heater motor there is a caveat or two. The unit pictured with the two blowers needs counter rotating motors. Packards motor only runs in one direction which looking at the shaft end is CCW if memory serves. If the motor that is out is the one that is bad, a Packard item may not work. I believe that blower on the right will need a CW motor. Another item to consider is shaft size. Packard heater motors are 1/4" and being that unit has two blowers, it probably is too -- but perhaps not. Many AC units had slightly larger motors and a shaft size of 5/16".

Another option if the motor has to be replaced is to get a universal heater motor such as this one It is a permanent magnet motor and reversing the leads will make it run in either direction. The shaft size can be accommodated with an adapter if there is a mismatch to the wheel.

EDIT: Here is more history from the book "Boy! That Air Feels Good" by Rod Barclay. Frigikar was started by the owner of Dallas dealership Lonestar Cadillac in the late 40's. It started as a one off for a customer. Unlike prewar, the dealer couldn't get postwar AC units for this customer or any info from the factory on future availability. Not knowing the future plans, he decided to built his own units he could sell with his cars. After a few of those sold in his Cadillacs more people with other cars wanted AC so he started the company Frigikar to make, sell, and install units. Frigiking came later as a different model in the line and ultimately became the company offering.

Good news to all of you who replied to this Frigikar topic. Today I reconciled myself to disassemble my 6-volt electric motor and determine what might be wrong. **Prior** to disassembly (last resort)I decided to try and do one more electrical test, this time slightly different than before. This time I hooked aligator clips to make the ground from motor to battery--then holding the motor upright I touched the hot wire to the negative battery post and immediately upon contact the motor started working. I ran it for several short 20 second intervals and the motor still would spin like like a new one. After reinstalling the motor it would not work so I put my hand down into the air outlet and gave the cage a quick hand spin, whereupon it took off running. Now it responded to the a/c off/on switch!! I had thought the motor was just set up from non-use rather than years of regular use. The Packard repair spirits were at my house today!! The drier has been removed for rebuilding in Fort Worth, TX, I need to make one length of aluminum or copper tubing and we are ready to evacuate the system. Thanks to all, more photos to follow as project proceeds.

That is good news. Wonder if the brushes are hanging or are possibly worn causing the intermittent no go.

Great News

In the past when I came upon a heater motor that would not respond to a switch being turned on a light rap would often get it operating.

(o()o)

Came to this thread late but I just went through this with the heater blower motor in my '63 Dodge Dart. It worked but was throaty and scratchy-sounding. Thought maybe the bearings were shot and I thought I might have to replace the motor. New motors (like the one pointed to) aren't very expensive, but when you care about originality, it made me think again.

A friend and I disassembled the motor and quickly discovered the reason the motor sounded tired was because the Oilite bearings and the surrounding felt washers were bone-dry. They weren't even terribly worn. We did have to undertake some light drilling to remove some tiny rivets (the motor wasn't intended to be taken apart and serviced), but by the time we heated the old bearings up to sweat out the old oil, dunked them in new oil, lubricated the felt washers, and re-assembled the armature brushes and bearings, the motor ran better than new.

I would definitely have encouraged you to tear apart the old motor to repair it. If you compare old electrical motors against new ones, many old motors are made with extremely high-quality components, and unlike new motors, they can be taken apart and repaired. New motors have planned obsolescence built-in: they are designed to function and then once they break down, be thrown away.

I agree on the motor quality but unfortunately another sign of the times. If someone is handy with tools then taking apart the original is an option or if not handy, sending to a professional who can rebuild and paying their price is the other option. In this case I believe the quote was $300 which is a fair amount of change but maybe worth it if the motor is seen and on a decent original looking car. Replacing an exposed 12v is much easier because so many NOS or repros are still around. On the exposed 6v motors, it is a little more of a project. NOS 6v for most cars are getting all but extinct. If the motor is hidden inside an enclosure as was this case then a universal approach may be more cost effective. Even that has problems though because the modern universal types seem to be only available in a one size fits all configuration.

The one problem I have found on taking some of the motors apart is with the brushes on many of the small motors. The holder plate is riveted to the end case and with the field coils and armature having to go back in at the same time, without special tools it can be a real project to work against the springs and retract the brushes in the holders so the armature shaft can slide into the bearing.. I have seen more than one motor left in pieces because it didn't want to go back together.

I don't know if it is still recommended but at one time there were suggestions to drill a tiny hole centered in the end cap directly over the bearing. Using one of the needle type oil applicators you could then add a couple of drops of oil to rewet the bearing and felts. You did have to use caution though -- not drilling too aggressively and being careful to not drown the motor with oil.

The brush holders and brushes needing to be held back against their springs was an issue when we were putting the motor back together. It really took two of us (four hands) to do it, so it wasn't a one person job. The way the factory quickly assembled these I'm told was similar to how many electronic devices come today with batteries pre-installed. They have a pull-tab that you yank out in order to allow electrical connection. So the new brushes would be assembled in their holders pushing back the springs with some kind of tape or string retracting them. Once the holder was in position, you could yank out the tensioner, allowing the brushes to contact the commutator. But when you're rebuilding the motor, you have to do that manually and it's pain.