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Ah, guess I misunderstood the manual. It must be 'After 2 min at 800rpm' to warm up, but then at the correct "low" idle speed of 400-450.
we will set timing, dwell and get the idle better adjusted then throttle and selector linkages adjusted.
The head is also leaking a little water. Might try a new head gasket. Any suggestions for Gregor on getting the head sealed properly?

You might try simply checking the torque of the head nuts and tightening to spec (63 lb-ft) if necessary but chances are that you'll end up removing the head, checking it for straightness, and installing a new head gasket.

This might be a good primer for the job:

packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=863

Hi
I did 63 but its still Leaking
The Head gasket was on the block with the old gasket and then there just layd the Head on top Most proberbly 6 Month
So maby the New gasket is demaged

Thanks Dave,
When the car arrived here, the head was just laying on top of the block with the gasket underneath, but not tightened. We thought we would try using that gasket but now have leaks. Gregor did clean the surfaces well, and we used some copper spray on the gasket before installing. I also torqued it in 2 or 3 steps. I forget exactly, but we did the pattern according to the manual.
Cleaning the threads on the studs and nuts we can also do next time. I think I have a tap/die for those.
We'll see if we can either check the head ourselves or bring it to a machine shop and have them check it.
-Tobs

So, G's Packard is actually coming together! Idle is down to a normal rpm and electric is sorted out again after some problems. Head is holding water, and it could be that one lifter is ticking (hydraulic) but we hope that will go away.
The tranny is still giving trouble in H. Low and R seem to be fine. Earlier there was too much oil, and Gregor got the oil to the correct level yesterday. I had adjusted the throttle linkage before Gregor put a new head gasket on it, but not after the head gasket was replaced. So the throttle linkage should still be close if not spot on.
I'm guessing the next step it to check pressure on the high clutch while driving. When cold, the trans seems to work better, but slips in high when warm.
Any advice for us? Is this due to certain bushings that are worn, and bleeding off pressure to the high clutch?

The high clutch is fed between two bushings that ride on the extended nose of the front pump. They need to have a nice fit, no more than 0,13mm. The clutch pack piston in those years was a cast iron ring which seldom gives problems, but will want looking at. Chances are the clutch discs are bald from slipping.

A pressure test will tell of the bushing problem.

So my 53 is Running like it should we got a nother transmision in .
it was running poor . Somtihng in the carb was wrong.
Many thanks to mike with out him i would be Not finish yet .
Thanks
Mike

A new tranny from a parts car, Set The Point Gap, new plugs and adjusted The choke (it was sticking waaay on)also adjusted timing. Now she actually runs quite well. Hope she Holds up. Starts right on the first crank!

Well, Summer is hot here, and Gregor almost has his inspection completed. The one thing that is holding him back, is that his brakes are digital. There is hardly any control or modulation. Either nothing, or full hard stop. The booster m/c is some aftermarket thing. I asked Gregor to Take a pic so we can help him. The inspector said to check for correct install of The brake pads and Return Springs.
I think he should check The Wheel ends for correct springs/pads, then look to The booster/mc. Any other advice?
I Remember The booster is a vac unit, not electro/hydraulic but more than that I cant say. I guess he should also check The bore dia of the mc.
Thanks! Mike.

Just for fun try it with the vacuum blocked off. If this booster was for disks and you still have the drums, it may be wayaaay overboosted.