Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

HH56 and tolandis, Thanks for your help. I find that if someone has a problem with Packards there is usualy someone who has "been there and done that". I am going to try to adjust the gauge again. I removed the rivets and have bent the "wiper" several times but get the same result. Empty then sudden change to full at about 1/2 way through the arc of the float arm. I have ordered a JC Whitney universal sender as it looks like it may fit without a lot of modifications. I hate to spend $150 on such a simple part. Now if someone can give me some tips on how to install the new gas line inside the engine compartment I would appreciate that as well. I think that I may have to cut and bend the line in sections and join with hose.

If you have to cut the fuel line into sections to get it fitted, I'd strongly advise against joining with rubber hose. Use brass unions instead; since the quarters may be cramped, you don't have to use the flared type but can use compression gland fittings. I suggest this for two reasons, (1) rubber hose can and will deteriorate over time, and (2) the gas tank is a wonderful heat sink to keep the gas line cool and inserting rubber hose will break the heat transfer.

Owen, Thanks. I have been considering those gland fittings as well as I really don't like to use rubber hoses in gaslines except at the frame to fuel pump section . I am going to get into the garage this afternoon and see just how big a job this is going to be. I have a feeling that it is something I should maybe have never started. I am also wondering why Packard brought the gas line up from the drivers side and across and under the engine when it would seem to be that the passenger side would have been an easier route. The outlet for the gas tank is on the drivers side also but surely that could have been fabricated with the outlet on the passenger side. I may bring the gas line across from the drivers side behind the tank and then up to the fuel pump from the passenger side and avoid this under the engine run. It wouldn't be factory but it may be that I won't be able to replicate the factory install without removing the engine in any event and that's not a choice I want to consider. I will let you know how it goes.

I'm curious on your routing. Mine is along the left frame rail to just behind the brake hose mount, then up across top of frame around shock and across lower radiator mount and then to that soldered on fitting. It appears to be original.

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Correct. The routing is exactly the same on my car.Sorry if I confused you by the mention of "under the engine". It is actually in front of the engine along the lower rad frame. The problem will be to make all those bends of 5/16" steel line in such a confined space. I tried to remove the old one without straightening the line but found it couldn't be done so I guess I will have to try and fit the line in and then make the bends. I will let you know how I make out as i haven't attempted it yet.

Owen: I have never gone against any mechanical advice you have given but this time I must. On gas and brake lines use only flair fittings not compression fittings when using steel tubing.

John F. Shireman

I sort of agree with you John, but if you absolutely can't find the room to use a flare tool, you can buy compression gland fittings even for hardened steel tubing and I'd find that preferable to using rubber hose on fuel lines. Of course brake lines MUST be flared, actually double-flared.

Regarding the routing, I suspect the reason for the route along the driver side was because of the proximity of the exhaust system on the other side.

Owen: Maybe it might be time think outside of the box concerning gas lines. It might be just time to pay a visit to the local hot rod shop or hot rod vendors online. Taking a look at the steel braided flexible gas line and fittings they sell.

John F. Shireman

I would think a compression fitting should be ok in that scenario as you are not dealing with the kind of pressure you would on a brake line, and actually there is no pressure as is really a vacuum. The pump in the front on the car is sucking the fuel through the line. As opposed to a tank mounted pump that is pressurizing the line, and pushing the fuel to the front of the car.

If the fitting failed, then the front mounted pump would just suck in air. As opposed to a tank mounted pump where it could squirt fuel through a breach.

Just some 'fuel' for thought!

Kevin, I can guarantee that a properly installed compression gland union on a steel gas line will work fine and last for the ages, I've done it a number of times. You've got to remove the paint from the line, and the end where the gland will lie must not be deformed, i.e. still perfectly round. Simple repair.

Thanks John for the thought of shiny flexible hot rod gas line, but I can't think of any good reason to resort to that.