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The carburetor was the way I received the car when I got it from the person who had been restoring it. Yesterday when I was looking over the situation i did notice that the carb would not open up all the way. While I did not have much time to investigate it I figured that something must be installed incorrectly. So the spring being wrong might be the cause.

I needed to do a double take on the "screw" in the picture because there isn't one there on the car. After going out and examining the car that shiny screw is the chrome knob on the distributor and the slot from a reflection from the air cleaner. The slotted screw is just left of where the picture ends and it has a large cylinder head and there is square nut behind it.

Don't know if I'm going to be working on it today as I'm going to remove the radio from our '51. While it works, it is hard to tune stations going from low numbers to higher ones.

Oh well, old cars are like houses - there's always something to do.

Sorry for less than a good photo but I think you can clearly see the air filter retainer screw is on the backside towards the cowl with the wingnut handle on the inside over the manifold.

If in fact your throttle won't open all the way because the accelerator pump has bottomed out, then almost certainly the link is upside down as that is the specific purpose of the "hinge and spring" in the link - to allow the throttle to continue to open even though the pump has bottomed out. I continue to be amazed at the number of times I see this error in assembly. I'd fix it sooner rather than later before something gets stressed and breaks - only takes a few minutes. And remember the pivot screw should be left-hand thread unless someone stripped it before and perhaps repaired with a righthand. If so, use some Locktite as the normal action of the mechanism will back out a right-hand thread.

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Dave,

Thanks for the assist. I made a "S" shaped bracket and will paint it the next time I spray with black. I turned the link so it is installed correctly using LockTite as the threads were right handed.

My air cleaner does not have the wing nut screw like yours. So I'll work on that between other things on the car.

My next efforts will be on the Bijur system. It has an automatic pump without the glass jar in the manual that is posted on-line courtesy of you. I have it soaking in paint thinner to get the crude off the outside. I can only guess at too what awaits me inside.

Again thanks for the help.

Glad you got the air filter and carburetor squared away. It just amazes me how many folks have stripped the pivot screw for the accelerator pump (geez, be gentle with threads in pot metal and if it doesn't want to loosen and come out, try turning it the other way) and mount the lever upside down. Nice to have it fixed before any damage to the carburetor occurred.

Regards the Bijur, usually the physical piston pump itself never wears, after all it's immersed in clean oil it's entire life. But the felt inlet filter at the base should be cleaned. The automatic pump uses the variation in engine vacuum to operate the pump and as is common with such things, as with distributor vacuum advances, is that the rubber diaphragm fails. Easy to test with your mouth or a little vacuum pump and there are folks out there who can rebuild them if need be. When I had mine redone Bijur was still performing that service but they no longer do that work.

The other common finding with Bijur is that some of the drip plugs will no longer deliver oil - they also have a felt filter in them and sometimes just cleaning them does the trick. Also the passages internal within the shackle itself and the shackle bolts may be clogged. And be aware that there are several different shackle bolts with different internal oil passages and they are specific to specific locations - no telling what someone might have done in the past. Otherwise new ones are available from Bruce Blevins and others. Classic & Exotic also has Bijur parts. The network of lines can be disconnected both at the pump and at the drip plugs and then flushed with solvent to clean them. You might also physically check the lines for any breaks or pinched lines. It's a really odd size tubing but it is available.

If the Bijur is not functional I'd sure resist driving the car much as the wear on the spring bushings and shackle bolts, as well as the mechanical brake linkage and clutch throwout bearing (unless a sealed bearing has been installed) will be expensive to redo. If a sealed throwout bearing has been installed hopefully the installer remembered to block off the line. One thing you can do is disconnect the oil outlet from the Bijur pump and use a high pressure oiler like a Lincoln to force-feed oil thru the system, noting which Bijur drip plugs function and which don't. Friend Bill Robbins in Ephrata PA has just been thru a complete Bijur service and you might want to speak with him - he's doing a quite outstanding job of correcting many years of neglect (not to mention prior owner's butcher work) on a 34 1101, many of the same systems as your car. Bill is listed in the PAC Directory.

A few additional pictures, of a 901 with a downdraft setup.

On the Bijur repair I've used two approaches, for fixing the rubber diaphragm.

As previously stated, the mechanical portion of the Bijur pump unit is fairly robust.

I've found air brake cylinder diaphragms from Mack trucks to be a good fit, in thickness and material (fabric reinforced rubber).

PM me if you're interested, I may have a few left.

By carefully grinding around the lip of the vacuum power unit on the Bijur unit you can separate the halves.

I've tried the crimp and roll method using a 3/8 wide strip of steel and forming it around the two halves to crimp them together. This worked for a while, but I wasn't able to get enough compression of the rubber diaphragm to maintain a good seal.

I then used small #4-40 screws and tapped the flange of the bottom vacuum power unit in multiple places. Once painted the screws are not that visible and it easily allows you to tighten or repair the power unit in the future.

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The other way to effect closure of the two halves of the Bijur vacuum diaphragm is the way Bijur did it, with a pair of steel clamp rings and screws. Completely effective and easy to disassemble if you ever need to again (unlikely), but it's obvious it's been repaired.

Thanks for the inputs. The Bijur lines from the system to the throw-out bearing and to the throw-out fork are both missing. The previous owner had rebuilt the transmission and I see that he did not plug the Bijur fitting so I think it is OK to assume he did not use a sealed bearing. The rest of the Bijur lines on the system appear to be in tack. I've used a Mityvac and the Bijur's diaphragm is good. When I cycled it vacuum/no vacuum, it would not pump oil. It appears to be gummed up.

I want to wait until the car is ready to roll before charging the Bijur system with oil, but I want to get it before proceeding much further on the project. So my plan of attack is;
1. To get the automatic pump functional.
2. Connect the missing lines & install missing drip
3. Install missing drip fittings
4. Pressurize the system with air to 50 psi and leak test connections with leak solution
5. Repair leaks as necessary.
6. Using a reservoir filled with solvent, pressurize the system with solvent without the Bijur Tank.
7. Verify that each lube point is receiving solvent by monitoring leakage
8. Repair or replace fittings as required
9. Allow system to blow dry to remove solvent

I've used a Mityvac and the Bijur's diaphragm is good. When I cycled it vacuum/no vacuum, it would not pump oil.

Great little tool, that Mityvac!!! No one should be without one. If you only cycled the pump with the Mityvac 5 or 10 times, I wouldn't expect to see any oil emerging yet from the outlet - try 50 or 100 cycles. And of course first make sure the inlet screen/felt is clean.

All the original Bijur vacuum units I've seen from the 30's had a rolled over edge, no screws holding them together.

Classic & Exotic offers Bijur parts and a rebuilding service.

classicandexotic.com/store/p-432-bijur-c ... icator-pump-rebuilding-service.aspx

classicandexotic.com/store/c-3-bijur-chassis-lubricator.aspx

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Thanks - the Tank/Pump on my car is different. Since the diaphragm is good, I'm going to try and clean everything up and see if it still works.

Here are some pictures of mine.

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