Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Here is a photo of a nicely restored firewall that shows some of the wiring layout. You can see the small run exiting the main loom and heading up and over toward heater and carb switch. Think it came from a restored ebay car but don't remember where I got photo for sure.

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And here's an unrestored example

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I can't think of any exceptions right now but generally ANY US made automobile made prior to 1955, certainly prior to '48 would require an overdrive to be compatible with 2014 driving expectations.

One word of warning:

Drive cautously for the first few hundred miles at hi speed. Especialy when traveling interstate hiway at much over 55 mph negotiating rather sharp interchange ramps etc. Be very alert to any severe body roll that mite set in of rather hard curves at speeds much over 55.

Some 15 years ago i witnessed a near immaculate Packard probably 1930 to maybe as late as 1938 on I-40 thrue Music. Probably belonged to the late big shot judge of the county. When the car entered onto a rather sharp interchange ramp it damned near lifted off of the wheels on the inside of the curve.

Just ease into it until u build confidence in the car for higher speeds and learn the feel of it at higher speeds.

I mistaken thought the wires exited the loom where they are cut, but they continue down the loom to the different components Now, I just need to find out which wire goes to what. Two things - looks like the original wire connections to the voltage regulator have been replaced with new wire. And . as I said before, my overdrive relay is missing.

This question is for Howard ( who has been such a great help to all of us) or anyone else that wants to comment. 1948 Deluxe - If I connect wire # 47WR ( Relay terminal to Overdrive Indicator Light) to battery positive -should the indicator light burn - if bulb is good ? Or is the bulb socket not grounded ? Trying to verify the cut wires one at a time Thanks

l can provide an R-9 relay if you still need. $140.48 delivered.

DAF

If battery positive is grounded as it should be 47WR would need to go to the negative terminal for bulb to light.

The lamp circuit gets its ground via 49W2R to terminal 7 of solenoid and then thru a closed contact in the solenoid which grounds to solenoid case. When the solenoid is fully extended with pawl engaged and car is in OD that solenoid contact opens and lamp goes out.

My solenoid is off the car - disconnected. So I cant use 49W2r as ground. Just want to verify that the cut white wire is 47WR -Any way I can do that with the solenoid disconnected ?

DAF - What is the condition of your R9 relay - Thanks