Re: Had this problem before, 49 Custom 8 won't go into gear
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I will take pics when I get the hub off for you guys to see. I assume I just get another cotter pin at the auto parts store?
Posted on: 2014/11/24 12:23
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Re: Had this problem before, 49 Custom 8 won't go into gear
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Nothing unique about the cotter pin, local hardware stores normally have a good assortment, it would be poor practice to use the old one again.
But you should get some instruction on how to adjust the wheel bearing when you reassemble - it's easy but VERY important to get it right. Have you bought a reprint copy of the shop manual? If not, it's highly recommended.
Posted on: 2014/11/24 12:41
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Re: Had this problem before, 49 Custom 8 won't go into gear
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the wheel bearing nut and wheel bearing came out and off easy and is in good condition. The wheel hub seems to be stuck on the upper part. I've pried it all around and it wants to come off except for the top part.
I have this repair manual but can't find anything about how to adjust the wheel bearing. I found this online--does it sound right? Remove the brake drum and the outer bearings. To remove the inner bearings you'll have to remove the inner seal first, so have new seals ready. You can remove the grease seal by gently using a metal drift and carefully driving it and the bearing out together from the opposite side. Clean the old grease from the hub and clean the bearings gently in kersone or mineral spirits; gasoline works but wasn't recommended. Inspect the rollers for surface imperfections like chips, worn flats, etc. Also inspect the bearing races in the same manner and replace if necessary. Then repack either the new bearings or old bearings with wheel bearing grease and take care to fill the cavities between the rollers. There are handy little tools available for this but most folks just put a wad of grease in the palm of their hand and "slap" the bearing repeatedly into the grease, forcing it thru the roller cavities. Smear a little more across the outside of the bearing, and a bit of extra into the cavity in the hub. Install the new inner bearing and then a new seal to retain it. The "opening" of the seal should face grease, i.e. should face the interior of the hub. Install the drum with inner bearing and seal on the spindle and then install the front bearing and attaching hardware. Tighten the retaining nut firmly with a wrench to make sure the bearings and races are seated. Then back it off and tighten again with just your fingers until it's snug, back off 1 hex to the nearest cotter pin slot, and check the feel. Old timers did it entirely by feel and liked to just barely feel an almost imperceptible degree of looseness (enough you could barely feel but not see) and the correct adjustment. Packard in later years had a shop manual procedure using a torque wrench. In that method they recommended tightening to 20 ft-lbs to seat the bearings, then backing off to loose and tightening again to 4 ft lbs (48 inch lbs), then backing off to the nearest cotter pin slot. Practice and try both methods - see if they give the same fit. Attach file: ![]() ![]()
Posted on: 2014/11/24 12:50
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Re: Had this problem before, 49 Custom 8 won't go into gear
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Adjusting front wheel bearings is a "just so" story, too loose or too tight will result in bearing failure, maybe damage to the spindle as well.
In 1955 Packard published a torque wrench method in the Service Counselors, and later published a correction to it. Here's their corrected method and I see no reason why the method doesn't apply to earlier models: 1. Tighten the nut to 20 ft-lbs (to insure the bearing is seated). 2. Back off the nut until loose. 3. Tighten the nut to 4 ft-lbs. 4. Back off 1 full hex and then further to the first cotter hole. That method aside, most everyone that does this job routinely without a torque wrench has their own pet method and others may well post theirs. The way I do it is to first tighten the nut securely to make sure the bearing is seated, and then back off until loose. I then tighten it with my fingers as tight and snug as I can get it and back off until there is just the very slightest, almost inmperceptible, amount of free play.
Posted on: 2014/11/24 14:11
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Re: Had this problem before, 49 Custom 8 won't go into gear
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Here is the hub and it's stuck on the brake pads. I feel like I'm going to break or tear something up if I keep forcing it. Ideas?
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Posted on: 2014/11/24 14:52
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Re: Had this problem before, 49 Custom 8 won't go into gear
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Just to get the nomenclature right, the friction surfaces for disc brakes are "pads", for drum brakes they are "shoes".
Looks like the shoe is cocked, probably because the retainer failed. If you can just push the shoe back flat against the backing plate the drum should come right off. Alternatively, you might also go around to the back of the backing plate; for the cocked shoe there will what looks like a nail head about half way between the ends of the shoe (it's just visible in your photo). You might try pulling it outwards towards the center of the car - if the innards are still in place it will return the shoe to it's correct position against the backing plate and allow the drum to come off.
Posted on: 2014/11/24 15:34
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Re: Had this problem before, 49 Custom 8 won't go into gear
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I think I found the culprit. One pic is obviously the wheel with hub off and the other one is the (I think) retainer pins and springs. As you can see the one on the right is missing the tow little circle things that I guess keep it in place. Where in the world would I get new ones?
Posted on: 2014/11/24 16:42
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Re: Had this problem before, 49 Custom 8 won't go into gear
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Where in the world would I get new ones?
Not to worry, easy peasy as they say, just standard brake hardware commonly available though I don't know if you can get just those parts singly, you may have to buy a full hardware kit for the wheel. Certainly Kanter's and Max have them, others may have other suggestions for sourcing.
Posted on: 2014/11/24 17:11
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Re: Had this problem before, 49 Custom 8 won't go into gear
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Home away from home
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If you pm me with address I'll drop a couple in an envelope for you. The larger issue is that I see brake fluid running down from the front of the brake cylinder. You really need to have these puppies done properly before something way more drastic than getting stuck in the garage happens.
Brakes are far and away the cheapest part of a restoration (or even just a fix-up for driving) so don't cut corners. There are new wheel cylinders and master cylinders available, and brake tubing is cheap and plentiful. There is no Packard being driven on the road that should still have its original lines and hoses.
Posted on: 2014/11/24 17:47
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