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Hi all,
I'm getting closer to painting, and have already found a color match for the shannon green that I am going to paint the bottom of my clipper, but am just starting the process for the norwegian forest color for the roof.
My 53 was originally galahad/orchard green, but as long as I had the car it was painted in 56 colors (or something very close) so I am going to repaint it in shannon/norwegian forest.
Just to confirm, the norwegian forest is a dar green metallic, correct?
Here are the color codes for shannon green. Does anybody have such information for norwegian forest?

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second pic of paint can.

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I see you are in Germany. Are you going to paint it yourself? Is this in aerosol spray can form?

Yes, No and Yes
I'm in Germany. No, I'm not going to paint it myself. I am having somebody do it, but am helping him to match paint and procure the materials. Yes, the pic is of a spay can I had mixed at the paint supply shop for test purposes.
The real paint job will not be done with spray bombs

I posted a pic of the can becasue the painter said that is the code the paint shop uses to mix the color.
I think the final paint will come from 'sikkens' which is a large paint manufacturer. Not sure if they are worldwide...

I sprayed the firewall of the car last year with my compressor and DIY grade spray gun. It came out good enough for the engine compartment, but I'm going to let a pro paint the outside of the car.

Well, I went over to 'prosol' our local paint shop, and I brought with me one of the rear fender trim pieces that had been painted to match the roof. (These parts are usually chrome, but on my car they had been painted)
Anyway they were able to scan in the color and mix me a spray can for 18.50?. I'll give it a test, and see if I like the color. It's metallic like Norwegian Forest is supposed to be, but if it is a real match...who knows. It's a dark green color with a touch of blue/black.
I brought one of the DuPont color cards with me that I downloaded as PDF, but they couldn't do anything with it.

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A paint store spectrophotomer match is NOT dependable on metallics. We have a full on spectro at work and NEVER depend on it for metallic matches.

I will be re-shooting my 56 after repairs which is Norwegian. I have found off the shelf close in Doge and Ford but it is a shade lighter.
My paint guy told me of a shop here in Indiana that can reproduce all the DuPont classic colors and have all the old formula's. I haven't talked them yet as I am not ready, but that is my plan.

tch?ss

OK, good to know. I will test this mix out and see how it looks compared to the other (somewhat original) color I have available. If it doesn't match, I'll spend some more time with the color cards at the paint store and see if I can find something better.

Sounds good Troy, and Tobs. I have sprayed both the old lacquer and also more modern single stage and 2 stage urethanes with good results. they were solid colors -and a silver as well as messing around with some old school metal flake and some pearls mixed in urethane clear. I would offer the lessons I learned for spray outs at home though it seems there may be someone more experienced in one of the above posts. Dispite what some say, You can get better than driver quality at home with urethanes. I dont think water base or metallics can be done without a booth. Some very important safety concerns to be addressed for the urethanes.

www.autocolorlibrary.com doesn't seem to list the Packard colors past '53. You can try them by phone.
DuPont would have the codes, but you have to be a registered auto business to get on their site or contact a DuPont distributor directly.
Did you check this site/literature for '56 color chips?
If you can get the Packard paint code number and manufacturer they should be able to cross it. Otherwise, without documentation, it might be made for or by whomever shot the last paint and non-standard.
Metallics as stated above are subject to the spray conditions and may not look the same even if the formula is correct. A good paint shop can match metallics by adjusting pressure, thinning, spray angle, # coats, etc. Do test panels first.