Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Ahhh. The long skinny battery I looked at confused me. The original type looked like a six-volt, but was actually a 12-volt.

Evan, that was Mark Lambert in that video. DIY Network at one time had a Classic Car series and it was pretty good, Mark Lambert took a 1941 Packard and did a basic system work over on it. I recorded all but one, missed the one on the Checking the Fuel System. Due to copyright laws I can't post them. Maybe if we could get enough people to ask they would bring it back, just wishful thinking.
Here's the email address if anyone one else wants to write to them: Scripps Networks Customer Service <IS6061_58741@is.instantservice.com>
Maybe some day I can get a copy of Checking the Fuel System, hint, hint.
Wes

Send BigKev a PM about the Lambert video. He has one and would probably be willing to loan it out. It was a 1938 Packard 120, I believe, but the information was good for a wide-range of years. Excellent how-to program.

Thanks West, O'yeah 1938, my bad.
Wes

That's great to know! I will make a request. Getting to see how-to videos on our old cars can sometimes be difficult to find on YouTube and the like, if the poster has not tagged their video correctly. There's usually plenty of how-to videos on new cars, but not old ones

I feel like this is a dumb question, but you all said 'lift the engine' slightly to try and get the oil pan out.

Unless I get out my cherry picker, where would I be lifting by? Most of the time, I chock of a block of wood under the front of the oil pan to lift, but since I'm trying to get the oil pan off, do most people just pick at the front of the block and lift from the head? or is there a different lift point from beneath somwhere else on the block where I can lift and remove the oil pan simultaneously?

Try rotating the engine so the front crankshaft throws are up out of the way. Did you remove the lower bell housing and remove the idler arm from the frame to drop the steering linkage out of the way? I think if you do this the pan will come down with no problem.

(o{}o)

You might be able to put the pan back in position just long enough to raise the engine slightly with the floor jack and then block the engine up to hold. If the front motor mounts are loose or unbolted from crossmember you could place a thin block of wood under the bolt pads to keep them raised above the crossmember while you work on the pan. Should be able to get the clearance needed because if the counterweights are out of the way it shouldn't require much.

Quote:

Rotated the crankshaft, and the counterweights are no longer in the way. I have not removed the transmission lower bell housing: was seeing if it was possible to avoid removing that. But that may be the key to getting the pan off - just need a little extra longitudinal clearance - hopefully it won't hit the flywheel. Do other people really remove the steering linkage to get the pan off? Doesn't seem like you should have to do that.....?

By the way, what size crank socket do I need to fit over the head of that massive crank bolt on my damper?

Why are you reluctant to accept advice? I have done this job more than once and the steps outlined are necessary. They are not difficult nor are they complicated to perform.

(o{}o)