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Thanks for the info.
I pulled the rear end back apart this morning. I have not yet put the shafts back in nor have I torqued it down so it was an easy job.

Those washers on the studs are definitely plastic. I just did not inspect them closely and assumed it was just a lip on the studs.

Used my pocket knife to work each one up and off the studs. One was broken and several others have bites out of them.

I may use the Ultra Grey RT as suggested but would like to replace these as well. Are O Rings a poor substitute? I'm not seeing replacements on Max's web site but I need to call them this week anyway so I will ask.

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Stewart, are the holes recessed where the two halves mate together?
Wes

McMaster has a fair selection of O rings in various harder oil resistant materials which might be a suitable replacement for the originals.

I hope these two images below answer your question.

From the size of that recess in the holes I now see that it would take more than a normal O ring to prevent it from leaking

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Since the differential is vented to the atmosphere the only diving force that would cause a leak around the threads is gravity. Though I'm not usually a fan of silicone gasket sealer, I'd think a good gob of it in the recess and then around the threads should quite satisfactorily do the job.

The studs are knurled to keep them from spinning and the lube does migrate thru the gaps and weather an o ring or a housing gasket is used it will seep through to the nut head and leak. If you CLEAN all oil and grease from these areas on the housing and the ham and spray clean with a good brake cleaner and blow dry and encircle the base of these studs with the gray, semi hardening sealer you will be leak free. trust me. all other remedies will be ineffective.
I can post a brand that had worked for me in the past if you are unsure of the best product. Do not use the older style "orange" silicone or the blue or the black sealants.

I will probably go with the gray sealer for the rear end but I wonder if something like the nut in the image below wouldn't work.

Called Max'x today and ordered the King Pins set. Their website was only showing the set for Standard Steering. That's why I called, I wanted to make sure I got the power steering set with the needle bearings. They were not aware that both sets were not on the website. That's why I asked here about the set a couple weeks ago. I was not sure what the difference between the two sets was.

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McMaster says their sealing nut is good to 6000psi and 500 degrees but I would wonder if it needed a newly machined area to seal against. Wouldn't think it would be very effective if there is a chance the original nut had roughened the cover. The sealer alone would probably work just as well.

Its thawing out a little this weekend and I finally got some shop time.

I got the ham back in the axle housing. You can see I used the Grey High Torque RTV to seal it. Don't tell me I could have done something else to seal it because it's done now. I will replace the shafts soon. One of the shafts bearings I got from Max was wrong so I need to exchange it.

Also put the needle bearings back into one of the steering knuckle. The manual says to place them so that the trademark on the bearing is facing the spindle. I did one the wrong way but it's the one that moves freely with my fingers. The one that is in correctly does not move at all.

Also I noticed that the caps in the king pin set only have 1 grease fittings. The original caps have grease fitting on both ends. Is there a logical reason for that?

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Trying to finish up the rear end and get it all remounted onto the frame. Will be ordering parts soon.

Looking at the KYB website for rear shocks.

I am coming up with model 343149 when I cross reference other known shocks. Can any one confirm this before I place an order.

Amazon has them for $22.12 each right now.

Compressed length 12.91
Extended Length 21.57


Thanks

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