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All I've ever seen for the dimmer switch is the rubber cap. I don't think I've ever seen a pedal like that as an option. It looks more like something you would get from JC Whitney. At least it is easy to find the dimmer switch on that car.

Made some progress today not as much as I would have liked. Got the oil changed and the filter. found a burned up wire from the ignition switch to the relay on the fire wall. had a battery hooked up and lo and behold the horn works, so there is power going places. need to install tune up stuff soon.

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That relay and CB provides the voltage for the power windows and seat when the ignition is turned on and looks like it was wet at some point. Not too many of those particular relays cause problems. Believe 55 only used that one unless the car had factory indash AC in which case there would be another of the same type mounted under the dash.

56 used that one and same in the electric shift and AC but on a 56 you have to be careful. On cars with the power door lock option there is a relay mounted next to the window relay which looks identical on the outside but internally it is not.

Mike the wire immediately underneath the zip-tie. What is that being used for power? It may be an optical illusion here at my end, but it looks curiously like an ordinary lamp cord?

I personally would not sleep well knowing there is evidence of a potential fire hazard. Disconnect that ground when you are not around the car.

I ended up replacing my entire harness when I did my 55.

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The wire that looks like zip cord may be for the power antenna. IIRC some of the antennas had something like that.

PA Patrician,
Do you know that your motors work?

Can you use the wiring diagram and test light and see where the power ends?

The instrument voltage regulator supplies 5v to the temp, gas and oil gauges. If all gauges are inop then most likely the regulator has failed or not getting power. Check for 12v on the center terminal and a voltage out on the end terminal. If no solid 12v in, it is powered from the instrument fuse and sometimes those contacts in the fuseholder can oxidize and not make contact. If the 12v is present then regulator should have a voltage out but may be hard to measure accurately. When operating properly regulator pulses 12v off and on at a frequency to produce an average 5v to feed the gauges. Some meters are too slow to measure pulses and will not average well to give a good reading.

On the windows, you should have 12v on the red wire at end of round circuit breaker and then out of breaker into the terminal on relay end. When you turn the key on you should have 12v at the small (red??) wire on the far side terminal and the relay should close. The 12v should then be on the middle terminal which holds the large red wire going into the rubber grommet to feed the window switches and motors.

EDIT: Forgot to mention the regulator also needs a good ground to operate so make sure it is tightly screwed to the cluster.

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ditto on the voltage regulator for the gauges. I had to replace mine. There are options for a solid state V R. even with the reverse polarity. May last longer than the replacement orig style.

Crawling under the car yesterday to check on bumper fitment. Found the last cross brace on the frame all bent to crap. bent body mounts and every thing else doesn't look to good either good thing I have the parts car going too drill out rivits and install the one off of the 56.Contemplating taking the chrome and stainless off and starting over with a fresh paint job. thinking about pulling motor also bottom half of motor is bare metal.